Weight of fabric vs. style of pleat

[sydnie7]

I've a length of Black Watch wool destined for a kilt. It is somewhat lightweight (deliberate choice, as we live in "Sun Diego"). I was thinking of pleating to stripe, but have since seen Barb T's beautiful "box pleat No. 1." Love the look, like the idea of maybe-less-work, and might even get a fly plaid from the left-overs.

My only concern is weight of fabric. It's hard to discuss without having the specific weight, I know, but generally speaking: would a box pleat in lighter fabric not have enough weight to look good/hang well? Should box pleating be reserved for mid-to-heavy fabrics, while a lighter tartan would do best in a trad ~8-yard pleat pattern?

Or am I overthinking this -- not an uncommon habit BTW

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I am assuming you mean a traditional 4 yard box pleated kilt here. My advice applies to all 4 yard kilts, regardless of how they are pleated. I only make box pleated kilts in medium weight (13 oz) wool or heavier. I actually prefer 16 oz, but will use the 13 oz if that is all that is available. Anything lighter just doesn't do as well in a 4 yard kilt.

In an 8 yard kilt, you have the additional depth of the pleat, as well as the sheer amount of fabric, that makes the lighter weights work better. But not so in a 4 yarder.

Matt

[sydnie7]

Thanks for the advice. Guess I'll have to find something heavier to try my hand at trad box pleat. But good to know that my thought process (even thinking to ask the question) shows I may be getting the hang of this!

Pun intended

[Pleater]

I'd say go for more length of fabric and more pleats.

In the heat you waft away hot air as the pleats swing.

The 4 yard box pleat needs a sturdy fabric to give it gravitas, or it might look a bit skirt-ish.

I wear mostly soft cotton fabric in the summer, as I feel the heat more than most people being from the cool and mountainous north of England. I use 7 to 8 yards per kilt, and even in the height of summer on this sunny southern shore I can wear an 8 yard black cotton kilt, as long as I don't sit down in the sun.

[BEEDEE]

I have an 11 oz wool box pleat that hangs very well. But don't go out in a breeze and watch wind gusts around corners!!!!

Brian

[Ancienne Alliance]

You can also give weight to your fabric by adding a cotton lining to it !
This actually works quite well !

[Alan H]

I echo Matts recommendation. I've made only one tartan box pleat, and it was from 16 ounce stuff and it's quite nice. I vote for heavier fabric on a 4 yard kilt, and doubly so on box pleats.

The X-Kilt is box pleated, of course, but that's really a whole different thing.

[sydnie7]

Check.

Lightweight Black Watch = "trad" pleat to stripe, ETA prior to next clan dinner in March '09

Drag the fellow out to look at camo fabric for an X-Kilt.

Keep an eye out for 4 yds of heavy for a trad box-pleat.

Keep an eye out for jackets suitable for conversion.

Eat, sleep, drink? Highly over-rated!

[Barb T]

Try these folks on eBay. They have really really nice tartan at a good price, and many of the tartans are unusual. But they are selling out fast. Just look carefully to make sure you are buying the weight tartan that you want, and be sure to click "see all items in the store" so that you don't miss any of the tartans:

http://search.stores.ebay.com/CLANTA...149017QQsofpZ0

[sydnie7]

Alas, my list is long but my accounts are short. I'm trying to keep to a discipline re: not purchasing materials for more than one project in advance. . . but this site is a bad influence! Thanks for the link, though.