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  1. #1
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    Couple of questions

    first off, I've already gotten a TON of information off this forum.

    That said, I do have a couple of questions:
    1. When polishing handle material, what medium is best to get a solid shine?

    2. Is there a specific epoxy/glue that's best for assembling the sgian?

    thanks in advance

  2. #2
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    I used 2ton two part epoxy. and Aqua mend epoxy stick putty. It drys white and is sandable.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerr the Walker View Post
    1. When polishing handle material, what medium is best to get a solid shine?
    Really depends on the handle material, but in general use successively finer grades of sandpaper until no marks are left. I like to finish with wet and dry paper, very fine. You can finish buff with a felt buff and rouge for material like antler - I use a dremel tool for this. For wood I like to just use a wax finish.

    Brian

    In a democracy it's your vote that counts; in feudalism, it's your Count that votes.

  4. #4
    James MacMillan is offline Membership Revoked for repeated rule violations.
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    I use standard 5 minute epoxy, I've used several brands with the same results.

    For polishing antler, I use the polish that they sell in hardware stores for metal.
    For leather, I use the same.
    For wood, I use floor wax.

    All the polishing, where-ever possible, I do on the buffing wheel.

  5. #5
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    When using epoxy, is there any need to pin the tang to the handle prior to pouring the epoxy?
    The sgian I plan on making will not be for heavy duty cutting, but will probably get some light use. Does this factor in at all?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by James MacMillan View Post
    All the polishing, where-ever possible, I do on the buffing wheel.
    Yikes! This sounds scary. Do you use any precautions, Visegrips or such? You're putting a knife to a wheel spinning at 2000 rpm that can have a tendancy to grab and spit out toward you anything you're holding in your hands.

  7. #7
    James MacMillan is offline Membership Revoked for repeated rule violations.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccga3359 View Post
    Yikes! This sounds scary. Do you use any precautions, Visegrips or such? You're putting a knife to a wheel spinning at 2000 rpm that can have a tendancy to grab and spit out toward you anything you're holding in your hands.
    Well kinda - I never sharpen the blade until the very last step, so I am working with a dull blade! I do, however, wrap the blade with a couple of layers of masking tape. I wear gloves, and eye protection, and a sturdy shop apron. To be honest, I have never had the buffing wheel "grab and spit out toward" me anything. It must be the way I do it, or the pressure you put on the wheel. You don't need heavy pressure! You must allow the spinning cloth and the cutting or polishing compound do the job!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by James MacMillan View Post
    Well kinda - I never sharpen the blade until the very last step, so I am working with a dull blade! I do, however, wrap the blade with a couple of layers of masking tape. I wear gloves, and eye protection, and a sturdy shop apron. To be honest, I have never had the buffing wheel "grab and spit out toward" me anything. It must be the way I do it, or the pressure you put on the wheel. You don't need heavy pressure! You must allow the spinning cloth and the cutting or polishing compound do the job!
    I second this notion. I detail vehicles semi-professionally with what looks like an angle grinder with special pads. To the novice, too much pressure or weird angles can cause the tool to "jump" or even cause damage to the paint. Taking your time and using very little pressure yields great, safe results.

    The same should apply when using a buffing wheel.

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