Braemar Cuff Details, and Argyle pocket details?

[Bugbear]

This time, I'm trying to figure out how the Braemar style jacket's cuffs are set up. I have read that there is some kind of curved fabric patch that goes from the inside seam to the buttons.

Does this patch go across the bottom, or the top of the wrist?
Where are the buttons located on this style of cuff?


I am also trying to understand the pocket flaps on the Argyle jacket, but I'm not even sure what to ask. I understand that there are pointy things and there are three buttons.

How many pointy things are there, and which direction do they point?

Thank you.

[Chas]

Hi again Ted,

If I start with the Argyle pockets as I have my jacket sitting in front of me.

The pocket flaps have three points at the bottom, with an arch in between. There are three visible buttons again with very prominent stitching going either from the top of the pocket or from the button all the way to the bottom of the flap. The buttons can be in a straight line or in a shallow "V" - the centre one being the lowest. The centre button lines up vertically with the centre point and the other two buttons line up vertically with the centres of the arches. I have seen some variation as to the placement of buttons and depth of arches - I think it comes down to the individual tailor and the current style.

A Braemar cuff is to my mind a most peculiar thing because I can't see how they were supposed to work originally. If you can imagine an Argyle pocket flap rotated through 90 degrees and put on the cuff - but up two inches at least from the bottom of the sleeve (so above the wrist). The top starts as you say at the inner seam and the lower end or points are half way across the cuff. Again three points and two arches, but very flat arches. A quick glance and one might believe that the edge was straight. In fact, I have seen cuffs that were straight. This time there is no stitching, just three visible buttons, which tend to be closer to the three points. From a distance the buttons look vertical as opposed to horizontal with the Argyle.

Because it does not sit at end of the sleeve, I can't see what this cuff was supposed to do and I wonder if it was more to do with 'style' rather than having a function.

By the way, the pocket flaps on my Braemar are very similar to Argyle pocket flaps.

Regards

Chas

[Bugbear]

Thanks, Chas. I understand the pocket flap now.

I understand the cuff too, but it does sound odd only because it is up a ways from the end of the sleeve.

Somewhere I read about sleeves that had open vents at the bottom. What kind of jacket had those?

[Chas]

I've seen jackets that are called 'Jacobean' or 'Swordsman'. There is a tight cuff and a normal shoulder, but for the rest of the sleeve - half of it isn't there. I suppose that is an exaggeration, but the inner sleeve, from armpit to wrist is missing. How that is supposed to be better for sword fighting, I don't know. I think, in truth, it is a bit of 'made up' history, because I have seen the same type of jackets being worn in Shakespearean plays - Romeo and Juliet comes to mind. And that was supposed to have happened in the 1600s. There was a style on the Continent where men had a kind of reverse box-pleat in their sleeves of a different colour. But that would be expensive and I can't really see ordinary people being able to afford what amounted to two extra sleeves worth of material added to a jacket.

I think we suffer from a lot of fanciful history in the kilting world.

Regards

Chas

[Bugbear]

Oh wait!! I've seen Braemar cuffs before! On military jackets: red coats with white Braemar cuffs. Now I understand.

Anyway, thanks for explaining the open bottom sleeves, Chas, and everything else. I think I'm getting a better idea of the details.