Jacket Conversion question, again....

[Casey_in_Carolina]

OK, so I looked through the tutorial's suggested in my last post, and thought I was all set. Headed off to the local GoodWill and Thrift stores to pick up a jacket and start converting. I've run into a slight problem though. Turns out that there's just not many used jackets in my size. I'm about a 42 Long, at least, that's what it says inside my favorite corduroy jacket. What I'm finding is jackets that either fit through the chest, and are four to six inches short in the sleeves, or they fit in the sleeves, and overlap by four to six inches in the chest.

So the question, how difficult is it to take a jacket that fits fairly well in the arms and shoulders, but way too big in the chest, and make it into a wearable jacket? Is this something the uneducated can accomplish, or is it something better left to a professional?

Also, and this is just a random thought I had while poking around in the GoodWill store, how hard is it to make a waistcoat from scratch? I saw a lot of jacket/pants combos for sale, but very few waistcoats or vests. I was wondering if you couldn't use the material from the pants to make a matching waistcoat to go with the kilt jacket conversion. Or would that also be over-reaching the inexperienced, and something that should be left to the professionals?


Casey

[Bugbear]

I have been experimenting with this. If the jacket fits across the top of the shoulders, and the neck/shoulder diameters are fine, you may be able to put a pleat on each side of the back of the jacket following the back-side seam. This will need to be sewn down in the waist area on each side. It will take up the slack in the front, and may replace the open side vents.

If the shoulders are too wide, there is a way to take the facing off the collar, split the jacket down the back-center seam, then re seam it to take it in. The arms would have to be the correct diameter, though, and the facing on the collar will probably require a bit of careful hand sewing to shorten and put back on the collar.

Hope that gives you some ideas.

[Bugbear]

On the waistcoat, the pants could probably be used to make a matching waistcoat if you had a pattern. The front panels will probably need an interfacing to bulk up the fabric just a little bit.

I'm kind of wondering if I understand the fit issue you are having with the jackets, but maybe you just have very wide shoulders. Don't know.

[Shanntarra]

A waist coat is easy to make from scratch. Joann's has patterns on sale all the time. Make a mock up of it out of muslin ($1-2.00 a yard cheap fabric) before you cut anything out of good fabric. This way you can find out of you need make any special adjustments for your kilt, or to fit your belly. (When i make my husbands I buy a pattern to fit his chest, then do a special alteration to accomedate his 'bay window'. He looks much sharper that way.

As for trying to retailor a coat when it is big enough in the sleeves but too big in the front, that is a major reconstruction. I'm not saying it isn't doable but it is a lot of work.
Check out a tailoring book from the library for reference if you attempt this. Another help is "Reader Digest Guide to sewing" look for the 1980's edition. All the later one's they took out the tailoring stuff.

let me know if you need help. I'm not great but I might be able to explain some stuff to you.

[fluter]

As for trying to retailor a coat when it is big enough in the sleeves but too big in the front, that is a major reconstruction. I'm not saying it isn't doable but it is a lot of work.

One thing that is common is to change a single (back) vent to double (side) vents. We might get a little extra fabric to serve as facing for the side vents, by tapering the side seams in back... This would take up a little slack, but hopefully not throw off the front and not be beyond my skills.

Casey, I'd just try to be subtle with any changes you make.

Of course the ideal conversion vehicle would already have side vents. I have one jacket in hand that I could not resist---a summer-weight silk blend---so I'm going to try creating 2 vents & sew up the center vent.

[piperdbh]

If you find a jacket that fits but has too-short sleeves, there might be enough fabric hemmed into the cuffs which could be let out to extend the sleeves. I've had this done on two conversions and my PC. (I'm the same measurements as you, it seems, and rarely find sleeves that are long enough.) If you let the cuffs out, and re-hem them to the proper length, you'll have to resew the lining, as well, which is not a big job.

I've not done this work myself. I've hired it done a by a very capable seamstress in town.

Let is know how it turns out.

[Bugbear]

If you find a jacket that fits but has too-short sleeves, there might be enough fabric hemmed into the cuffs which could be let out to extend the sleeves. I've had this done on two conversions and my PC. (I'm the same measurements as you, it seems, and rarely find sleeves that are long enough.) If you let the cuffs out, and re-hem them to the proper length, you'll have to resew the lining, as well, which is not a big job.

I've not done this work myself. I've hired it done a by a very capable seamstress in town.

Let is know how it turns out.

Putting Argyle style cuffs on the jacket would also take care of the short sleeve issue. Some times there are several different solutions to these problems.

The best would probably be to keep looking for a jacket with the right fit.

Good luck.

[ChattanCat]

If you find a jacket that fits but has too-short sleeves, there might be enough fabric hemmed into the cuffs which could be let out to extend the sleeves. I've had this done on two conversions and my PC. (I'm the same measurements as you, it seems, and rarely find sleeves that are long enough.) If you let the cuffs out, and re-hem them to the proper length, you'll have to resew the lining, as well, which is not a big job.

I've not done this work myself. I've hired it done a by a very capable seamstress in town.

Let is know how it turns out.

Adding cuffs can lengthen the sleeves but you must plan for the length so cut off from the jacket will give you the length of cuff that you need. Otherwise, you will have a cuff that is too small.

[Bugbear]

Also, if you have that spare fabric from the shortening of the jacket, you might be able to let out the cuffs all the way to within a quarter inch or so of the pard of the sleeve that has been folded up into the sleeve from the old hem. The new facing would be sewn right side to right side on the outside of the sleeve, then turned back inside to make a seam at the edge or just inside of the end of the cuff. An interfacing would need to be added between the fold on the inside. It wouldn't work if the outside of the sleeve is faded or worn more than the inside. Bla bla bla.