Help A Newbie Kilt (X-kilt)

[SpecialK]

I've been following the directions for the X-Kilt, 2nd (final) ed., and I'm doing pretty well I think.

The part I don't understand is what the heck to do with the over-apron, the giant pleat underneath it, and the piece of fabric that is supposed to be attached to it -- the over-apron strip. I've read the directions about twenty times and it just doesn't make sense... probably because I don't know the right words to describe what I'm doing and the way it should look, and there aren't any pictures there. I get lost in all the rights and lefts.

At this point, I've got all the box pleats done, I've got the tapers to the waistband sewn, and I'm looking to tack down the top of the over-apron and then attach the over-apron strip that I never did anything with because I didn't understand where it'd go.

Does anyone have pictures of those parts -- so that I can see what is supposed to happen? Is there a secret step-by-step picture archive that I missed?

Bonus picture of kilt-in-progress, showing the dark digital camo pattern... I think I'm basting the waistband at this point after we fit it to my gut...



... And no, there isn't even the barest drop of scot in me, I'm just jealous of the ventilation! (Also, my co-ed rec league kickball team is named Commando, and, well...)

[JolyStNicholas]

Ya look very productive at your machine. Me, I would have sown my fingers to the material several times already. I'm an ol needle and thread kind'a guy!

[Aldisimo]

First of all, and welcome to the XMTS DIY club, and for including a photo with your first post!

I think that observation can clear up lots of confusion. My suggestion to you is to go to a shop that sells kilts and try one on. It doesn't matter whether they're traditional tartans or casuals, like Utilikilts®. While you're in the dressing room, look carefully at the construction, especially what's happening with that deep pleat. I'm sure that it will all make a lot more sense after that.

If there's no kiltseller around, maybe someone in your community has a kilt that you can look at. Best wishes!

[sydnie7]

That's great fabric! The first XKilt I made was gray digicam. Here's a photo of the inside of the front apron area.

I ended up putting the Velcro strip onto a larger piece of fabric but the idea is the same. Sew the top edge of the Velcro backing into the waistband seam, and fold the finished edge of the top apron over it. The folded and topstitched edge of the underapron big pleat hits about halfway under the Velcro in this shot. Hope this helps!

[Pleater]

If you get lost with all the rights and lefts you should try a Kingussie or reverse Kingussie kilt - they are mirror imaged from the centre back.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[Colonel MacNeal]

The word "Kraut" might be offensive to some of our other Teutonic Brethren.

[Alan H]

I think that sydnie's picture says it all. But if it doesn't, holler.

[vorpallemur]

I've been following the directions for the X-Kilt, 2nd (final) ed., and I'm doing pretty well I think.

The part I don't understand is what the heck to do with the over-apron, the giant pleat underneath it, and the piece of fabric that is supposed to be attached to it -- the over-apron strip.

The point of the over-apron strip is to keep the velcro's stiching from showing. I don't think that's clear in the instructions. (It's not terribly in the first edition, I don't remember if that got changed or not.)

Welcome to X-marks! Dont' forget to post the obligitory pleat shots when you're done!

The other thing that's not in the instructions about the velcro is to put the fuzzy side (hooks) on the outer apron (ie, facing your body). It doesn't make a functional difference, but it does keep you from getting stuck by stiff loops, if the velcro pieces aren't matched perfectly.

[SpecialK]

Thanks for the welcome and the hints, everyone! I'm not very experienced at sewing (unless you want a dog bed, which is what I originally bought the sewing machine to make...), so pardon my newbie questions.

Here's some images that should help. I think I've messed a few things up, but I'm Ok with that. I've got what feels like a lot of extra fabric in there, and haven't trimmed a few things (like the a-frame overapron hem) because I want to make sure that I'm doing the right thing before I cut something off. ;)

First, here's the backside of the over-apron and over-apron pleat. Click for an enormous version if you want to zoom in.



Here's how the kilt looks right now from the front.



Now, here's where I have the question. The piece that's hanging in midair is the top of that big deep pleat. The over-apron strip (which is about two feet long) is the part with the velcro stitched on to it, and the un-trimmed edge of the a-frame hem is on the right with the pin through it.

Is that right? Looks like it is. If it's right, where should I *end* that part? Should it go all the way across the A-frame or should it just kind of end where the velcro ends? Or does it matter? Obviously I'll trim it down as needed, and things are just tacked in place right now pending Knowing What I'm Doing (tm).



Thanks for the tip that the part the velcro's stitched to is just to hide the velcro stitching. That makes sense. I just don't want the stitches that are holding the over-apron strip to show through the front of the apron ... or am I worrying about nothing, not having put it together yet? ;)

Bonus under-pleat teaser shot:

[Alan H]

specialK...think.. don't just blindly follow the instructions, you gotta think about how this has to work!

If you put that big flap, which is the pleat that lies under the over-apron, on top of the velcro, then how is the velcro fuzzy part going to contact the velcro hookie part, in order to hold the kilt together? It won't, not if you assemble it the way you've got it.

What do you have to do, to make the velcro fuzzies meet up with the velcro hooks, which are on the under-apron? I'm not going to tell you, but just looking at your pictures should give you the answer. It's not difficult.

Am I being a PITA to not tell you? I don't think so. I'm encouraging you to think, and find your own solutions. It's impossible for me to write text that will solve every single question that anyone could possibly dream up about making an X-Kilt, so what I'm going to do is NOT give you the answer, I'm going to encourage you to think hard about what you're trying to accomplish, and make it happen.

you're a smart guy. You CAN figure this out.