A stitch across the bottom of the fell?

[iustus]

Hello all,

Interesting dilemma for me. I am replacing the straps on an old heavy weight Kilt (MacGillvray) given to me by an old drum major I used to play with as a piper. I have recently picked up Ms. Barbara's book TAOK to help in the process.

As I started to look more closely at this kilt, I noticed a machine stitched line across the bottom of the fell. It leaves a bit of a dent from the fell to the pleats.
Not too bad for me because I don't usually play or get dressed in this kilt. I do hike in it and wear it casually, but since reading Ms. B's book, I have a much sharper eye. Now the stitch seems to go against the garments own integrity and form. I imagine if I do take out the line, there will be the dent pressed into the material. Maybe that could be pressed out?

What should be done?
Do I need to open up the lining?
Is it possible this stitch is hold the whole thing together? (This is an irrational fear perhaps)
What is the risk of removing this stitch?
What is this stitch a short cut around?

Please Advise,

Justin

ps, first time post.

[sydnie7]

That line of stitching is called "steeking" and is explained in Barb's book. Normally done as an invisible line of hand stitching from inside, but I believe Freedom Kilts uses a machine stitch here (Steve mentioned hearing it called "the Freedom Kilt panty line"). I've also examined a bespoke kilt that's about 80 years old and the steeking is a visible hand stitched line across the outside of fell.

So your machine stitched line is not all that uncommon. It helps support the inner pleat. You might be able to remove the machine stitches, steam out the dent, and replace the steeking with invisible hand stitch from inside if it really bothers you -- but don't just rip it out and not replace it, it is part of the kilt's structure and adds to durability/longevity as well as appearance (by keeping pleats from drooping).

Have fun with your project! Hope this helps.

[The Wizard of BC]

Is this the sort of line you are describing?

You can see a line of machine stitches just below the Yellow stripe of the Kilt.



If this is indeed the line you are describing then yes, that is the Steeking line on a machine sewn Kilt.

This is one of the most important elements of any well made Kilt. It cannot be skipped or omitted if you want the pleats to remain parallel and to hang straight.

Because I machine sew my Kilts the Steeking line is visible on the outside.

In a hand-sewn Kilt the Steeking is done from the inside and is not visible.

[Barb T]

Hard to know what will happen if you remove the line of stitching on the outside. I was taught to put the steeking invisibly on the inside, and it's rare to see a hand sewn kilt with the steeking on the outside. But steeking has a purpose, and it helps stabilize the pleats at the bottom of the fell. Removing yours might not be a good idea. I think I'd just leave it and consider it a part of the kilt as it was made by the kiltmaker.

[vorpallemur]

Because I machine sew my Kilts the Steeking line is visible on the outside.

In a hand-sewn Kilt the Steeking is done from the inside and is not visible.

Is there a reason you don't use a blind stitch (a #103 stich) for this?

[Kiltman]

I'd just leave it as it is. Having repaired several kilts I can tell you that they all are a little different. Barb's book tells you the best, most tailored way of doing it. But since you use it for casual purposes I'd just leave it as it is.

[iustus]

(My apologies if this has appeared twice)

Thank you all for your time and thoughtfulness. I do appreciate it.
I will leave the stitching be.

I like the idea of respecting the kiltmakers work, though I am improving on the strap stitching. More a matter of replacing than alteration, they were old and beginning to tear. Almost a lost the front apron at wedding... would have been interesting.

I'll try and post some photos as comparison to your kilt, Wizard. Your Steeking looks much smoother, beautiful kilt.



Interesting pleating on my MacGillivray kilt, it seems to be a combination of to the line and to the set. Is there a special name for this style?


Hope the pictures turn out alright this is my first time trying to past them into a message.

Thank you all for you help.
justin

[The Wizard of BC]

Vorpallemur,

Can you please explain a #103 stitch. I know what a Blind Hem Stitch is but that is not applicable to this situation.

I suspect you have a sewing machine with multiple decorative stitches and the one you are referring to happens to be no. 103, but as each manufacturer uses different numbers on their machines I have no idea what exact stitch you are referring to.

[The Wizard of BC]

iustus,

Do you know who made your Kilt? It is unusual to find the Steeking line machine stitched in a Traditional Kilt. I thought I was the only one doing it that way.

Also, are the pleats cut away inside the Fell? It sometimes happens on less expensive Kilts that to save time the pleats are not cut away and this results in what we in the business call "Pillow Butt".
I can't tell too well from the photos but this may be the case or else the Kilt may need a pressing.

In reference to your question about pleating...If you notice the Sett size of your Tartan is fairly large. The Pleating seems to be a case of "Cheating the Sett". This is not an uncommon way to simulate Pleating to the Sett on large Tartans. This is done by pleating to the Stripe, but using different stripes to sort of look like the Sett.
But the Sett of this Tartan is not exceptionally large so it may also be a case of a Kiltmaker having to make Kilts for the entire band and wanting them to all look alike.
And because the Steeking line is done with a machine, I also suspect that you will find other machine stitching in this Kilt as a way of saving time and money.

[iustus]

Wizard,

Do you know who made your Kilt?

I do not. I do know it was made in Canada and I think it was in the East.

Also, are the pleats cut away inside the Fell?

Yes they are cut. The Tartan is a very heavy weight with a stiff finish. There is no fringe on this kilt either. When it was given to me, I was told it was military surplus from a transport company in the Canadian Military. I was about 17 and perhaps misunderstood the "surplus" part, it is military design to some degree; heavy white canvas lining, black "blanket" edging at the top of the kilt, heavy weight (though perhaps not 20oz) tartan, and two canvas loops attached to the lining. My guess is that is was for a band. The straps were old.

It is a well made kilt, very sturdy, though not elegant. There are a few other places where the stitching is machined though not conspicuous.


Thanks again for all your help.