How heavy is too heavy?

[D.A. Guertin]

OK, so we have tropical weight and feather weight that are unsuitable for kilt making, and then light weight (11 oz), medium weight (13 oz), and heavy weight (16 oz) with the legendary Regimental Weight (18 - 22 oz) that are suitable.

So how much heavier is too much? I have some 26 oz on its way for a 4 yard box-pleated that should be interesting!

[Paul Henry]

26oz... that is very heavy, twice the weight of medium weight, so if you have 4 yards, you'll end up wearing about 8yds equiv!
If it really is that heavy it will be harder to sew and will be a bit more rigid in behavour as well, but it will be interesting to see how it works

[Kilted in Maine]

Are you planning an arctic expedition?

[D.A. Guertin]

I know, this coming from the guy that lives in Houston, where we hit 20 degrees once a year...

The quick math you just did there crossed my mind yesterday. The one advantage I could come up with is that it will still have the balance of a box-pleated kilt. I couldn't imagine building a 'typical' 8 yard knife-pleat out of it! I had my eye on some truly horrendous worsted 100% Merino in 32 oz, but that just seemed silly after a moment, leading to the question of just where that grey area on the upper end of weights may be.

[McMurdo]

In my experience it's the yardage rather than the weight that makes the lion share of the difference. I'd say the 26oz will work but I'd keep it as a 4 yard box pleat.

[Pleater]

If you have fabric that is 26 oz per running yarn 54 inches wide, then a 4 yard length of it, 24 inch wide will measure - er - just under 3 lb - that should be manageable.

I suggest that if there are no more than 3 layers at any point in the main part of the kilt it should be possible to sew on a waistband by going through the four layers, then fold over and stitch down just through the fold and the top layer of the fabric.

It might be possible to do the majority of the sewing on a machine and only where there are multiple layers sew by hand. It would depend more on how the cloth is woven than the weight, I suspect, as thiner but densely woven stuff is harder to sew than a looser weave, where there is space for the needle to pass through between the strands It might be advisable to machine sew along the edge of the fabric to prevent the weft threads sliding out of the warp if it is a loose weave.

I have some old Army blankets which I keep looking at and thinking that they would make a good Winter weight and really tough outdoor kilt. They would also make a really good coat - and there isn't enough for both garments.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[vorpallemur]

Where'd you get this fabric from?

[D.A. Guertin]

eBay, of course. ;-)

[D.A. Guertin]

Well, having the fabric in hand, I can now say that the top end is 26 ounces. Anything more would just be too thick...

[Kid Cossack]

snip!
I suggest that if there are no more than 3 layers at any point in the main part of the kilt it should be possible to sew on a waistband by going through the four layers, then fold over and stitch down just through the fold and the top layer of the fabric.

snip!

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

Anne:

"Three layers of wool" has been my ongoing mantra when I sew up kilts. The waistband and aprons are the only places I go higher than that. While it seems odd to some, I find it gives a balanced kilt, regardless of pleating approach (i.e., box pleat, knife pleat, Kinguisse or reverse Kinguisse).