Longhuntr's Tam o' Shanter

**longhuntr74** · 26th March 10, 05:09 AM

Ok...so first there was this explosion of bonnet purchases...and I yearned to buy one myself...but I don't have the cash right now and I was able to restrain myself.

Then, Herminator posted a thread of his newly made Tam o' Shanter that he made using a pattern from the notorious Troop 7 (which, by the way, are some great instructions for a basic tam).
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f144/made-tam-58085/

Well I just couldn't control myself any longer. Not to be outdone, I set off on my quest to make a tam of my very own.

I must say, however...I can never just follow someone else's pattern...I had to make it my own. My inspiration and desire was to create a tam similar to those currently worn by the Royal Regiment of Scotland. I studied the construction and shape of it.

I had an old wool Army blanket with some Boy Scout patches sewn to it that I've been meaning to take apart...I always thought the color of the blanket was ugly and the sewing job was not to my standards. So I ripped all the patches off, pulled the threads out, and gave the blanket a washing and mild drying in my washer and dryer to "full the wool". So this golden olive wool was my starting fabric as it is very similar to the color of the issued Tam. I took the directions that Herminator provided a link to and set about making my own template...slightly different. In order to have the seam in the back and for the hat to flop towards the front, I opened the sidewall piece up from a donut shape to more of a horseshoe. I also made it narrower at the back than at the front...creating a shorter rise in back and more flop in front.

So here is my first pattern with the pieces cut:

I sewed it all together and came out with a pretty good product...here is my son, Matt, wearing it (the boy has the exact same size nugget as mine...58cm or 7 1/4"):

Back View:

Most people would have said "good enough"...but I wasn't entirely happy with it. Firstly, the size is a bit too large (though they did kinda scalp me at the barber on monday and my hair is shorter than it usually is). I tried to put it in hot water and dry it on high heat...no luck...this wool is just not going to shrink. It's also a bit stretchy...so it occurred to me that I should use some stiff canvas as an interfacing to the headband.

The other thing that I wasn't entirely happy with was the flop of it. I wanted the left side to stand up a bit straighter to facilitate adding a square of tartan or a rosette and badge of some sort. So I re-evaluated the shape of my pattern for my sidewalls. Straightening the curve of that piece on one side would cause that side to stand up straighter...whereas a more exaggerated curve to the front right would cause the tam to want to flop forward and to the right...so here was my original:

And here is the new template:

1. I cut out the pieces and stitched the interfacing to the inner half of the headband first:

2. Then sewed the sidewall together and sewed it to the outer portion of the headband. All seams are sewn right side to right side, then top-stitched on 1/8" from the join seam on both sides of the seam allowance to copy the construction technique or the issued tam.
3. I then sewed pinned the headband so that the inside top edge was exactly even with the seam joining it to the sidewall piece on the outside and stitched the bottom edge of the headband...I don't stitch the inside of the headband to the outside yet, because I insert the edge of the lining between the inside and outside of the headband at the very end and stitch it last.
4. I then pin and sew the top of the tam to the sidewalls...again, right side to right side and then triple stitching the seam. At this point the bonnet is turned right side out and should look finished on the outside.
5. I took a small piece of wool, folded it in half and pinned it to the inside of the tam (from the outside) at the center of the top as a reinforcement for stitching the toorie on.
5. I then sewed a liner of black cotton in the same manner that I sew the sidewalls to the top...only difference is that I cut about 1/2" more fabric on the inside curve of the sidewall piece and then cut slits all the way around that curve to allow it to stretch to the size of the head (cotton doesn't stretch like the wool I'm using).
6. I then placed the liner inside with the bottom edge inserted and pinned between the two layers of the headband...and then top stitched all the way around the top of the headband.
7. Finally I made a toorie and sewed it on top using waxed button and craft thread.
And here you have it:

And the back view:

I apologize for the ugly model!!!

I still need to add some sort of ribbon or tape/webbing decoration at the back and some tartan and badge, maybe a hackle, on the side...but I'm really happy with how it turned out. The side wall sticks up like I want. It's probably more on the proportions of the older WWII era Tams than the modern smaller ones...but I like how it flops. It's very similar to the shaping of my Army berets...feels natural on my head.

**mull** · 26th March 10, 05:50 AM

Wow!
That is not good for a first try; that is just a great Tam. If you decide make another and sell it, I would be first in line. I love the look of the OD cloth and the drape as it falls away. Excellent work.
Joe

**longhuntr74** · 26th March 10, 06:06 AM

Thanks for the complements Joe. It was my first Tam...but I should clarify it is, by no means, my first sewing project...I've been making coats, leggings, shirts, waistcoats, etc for several years now as part of my reenactment hobby...so I know my way around a sewing machine. I've recently started sewing my reenactment clothes 100% by hand...now that takes as much dedication as it does to make a kilt! I'll let you know if I should get the urge to make another one or two...I also have some flannel wool in camel, blue, and a darker olive/pine green that would make great tams also.

**HeathBar** · 26th March 10, 09:05 AM

Both tams look great! Would you care to share the deminsions of the top piece and side walls of both tams? And did you arrive at those based on the size of your "nugget", or just a number pulled out of the air?

**NorCalPiper** · 26th March 10, 09:19 AM

OK-I want one-How much are you charging?

**longhuntr74** · 26th March 10, 09:22 AM

Originally Posted by HeathBar

Both tams look great! Would you care to share the deminsions of the top piece and side walls of both tams? And did you arrive at those based on the size of your "nugget", or just a number pulled out of the air?

Just kidding Heath...no prob.

The headband should be a piece of wool 4" wide, by your head circumference plus 1" for seam allowance (1/2" per end)

The piece that forms the sides of the tam is about 3 1/8" at the thickest part in the center (which sits approximately over my right eye) and tapers to about 2 5/8" at the ends where they are seamed at the back left of my head...again, this was done to give it a lower rise in the back and a natural flop to the front right. The inside edge of that piece (the Nike Swoosh-looking thing) should roughly be about the same length as your headband...your head circumference +/- an inch for seam allowance.

Your top circle will depend on two things:
1. Your head circumference and
2. the width of your sides...if you want to make the sides wider...that will, accordingly, require a larger circumference/diameter top piece.

Mine worked out to be a circle approximately 11" in diameter. If you're unsure of how big the top piece will need to be...it's always better to go large....you can trim it down after you pin and/or sew the sides to the top. If you wear anywhere from a 7 1/8" to a 7 3/8" hat, my dimensions should give you the same results that I came out with...anything larger or smaller than that range, you'll want to add or subtract at least a 1/2" to 3/4" from the diameter of the circle...and perhaps go a bit narrower or wider on the height/width of the side piece. I wouldn't recommend going any narrower on the headband than the 4" I went with (it ends up being about 1 1/2" wide with seam allowance and doubling it over).

Hope that helps.

**Brian K** · 26th March 10, 09:23 AM

Originally Posted by longhuntr74

I still need to add some sort of ribbon or tape/webbing decoration at the back and some tartan and badge, maybe a hackle, on the side...but I'm really happy with how it turned out. The side wall sticks up like I want. It's probably more on the proportions of the older WWII era Tams than the modern smaller ones...but I like how it flops. It's very similar to the shaping of my Army berets...feels natural on my head.

You're quite the tailor. Looks like all your practice has paid off! AND you have the added bonus of you and your son having nearly matching hats!

Like you, I like the larger WWII style proportions - makes it look more like a tam than a beret. Berets are fine but they're not the same as a tam.

I really like the look of this and may have to look into one myself. Even wool blanket material like that may be a bit cooler than the heavy fabric in my Balmoral when the weather is actually warm (today the warmth of the Balmoral is a plus - as I'm sure you realize!). It also would help if it just had the band and not the crown lined. Of course, I'll have to buy one as i have never developed your needle skills.

After you make your planned adjustments and accessorizing you'll have to post pictures of you and your son together with the finished products!

Regards,

Brian