Stripe/Sett

[xman]

I was reading in another thread that pleating to the stripe is generally reserved for military kilts and for that reason I think it gives the kilt a more formal appearance. I might make this choice for a very formal look. What are the opinions of the members here about choosing stripe pleat over sett?

X

[davidlpope]

I think it's purely a matter of personal preference. Some tartans lend themselves better to one style or the other, based on their design. Do some "test-pleating" using MSPaint to see which you like the best.

Based on what I've seen in person and in photos, though, pleating to the sett is more widespread.

Cordially,

David

I was reading in another thread that pleating to the stripe is generally reserved for military kilts and for that reason I think it gives the kilt a more formal appearance. I might make this choice for a very formal look. What are the opinions of the members here about choosing stripe pleat over sett?

X

[bricelythgoe]

I like both pleating choices. I just got my 8 yard PV pleated to the stripe. My next kilt I plan on pleating to the sett. You decide what you like.

[ForresterModern]

Like David said, a lot depends on the tartan itself as to whether it lends itself to being pleated to stripe or not, as well as to personal preference, and to style of kilt construction. To my understanding standard Knife pleats can be pleated either way, while other styles like Kingussie and military box pleats tend to look much better, regardless of the tartan, pleated to stripe. Some tartan setts may be too big, especially in 16oz or heavier weights (heavier weights make the sett bigger as the thread count remains the same while each respective thread gets larger with increasing weight), to be satisfactorily pleated to stripe. IF you have your tartan and a kiltmaker ask them to lay out your tartan in the various possibilities, as they can be pinned up to demo the differences side by side on your actual tartan, especially if there are different possible stripes to choose from for stripe centering.

A kilt pleated to sett will look the same in both front and back, while a kilt pleated to stripe (thanks Leathern) will look different front from back, and may have a dominant color on the rear pleats, which will when walking reveal another complimentary color in the covered parts of the pleats, an often striking appearence. All depends on the sett and tartan.

All of my kilts are to sett except my new Kingussie in Ancient Caledonia which is to stripe (the orange)---don't worry, pics are forthcoming as soon as I get a few minutes on the computer at home to post them.

jeff

jeff

[lethearen]

I have an 8-yd pleated to the sett, and another to the stripe. I also have a 5-yd pleated to the stripe. I do like both styles, but I think that I'm more drawn to the stripe.

David's suggestion to use a graphics editor is a great one. I used that method to determine which stripe to pleat to on my 5-yd. I would recommend checking with your kiltmaker, as well, though. In my case, because of the stripe I chose the pleats alternate between two different shallow depths.

[auld argonian]

...and never forget how slimming vertical stripes are...

I've got a USA Casual in Hunting Stewart, an Ancient Hunting Robertson and a Muted Hunting Robertson all pleated to the stripe...and they look damn nice.

Best

AA

[lethearen]

A kilt pleated to set will look the same in both front and back, while a kilt pleated to sett will look different front from back, and may have a dominant color on the rear pleats, which will when walking reveal another complimentary color in the covered parts of the pleats, an often striking appearence. All depends on the sett and tartan.

Just to clarify what you said Jeff, I think you meant "A kilt pleated to the sett will look the same in both front and back, while a kilt pleated to the stripe will look different front from back"

Some tartans can make a really dramatic colour change by that trick. I think it was a MacPherson tartan someone posted here that looked blue from behind but flashed red whenever the pleats swayed. Very striking!

[ShaunMaxwell]

Personally, I'm beginning to like kilts pleated to the stripe, but as everyone has already stated, it depends on the tartan...

Here's an example of a Smith ancient kilt pleated to the red stripe. The front of the kilt shows the size of the sett, which is quite large, so there aren't as many stripes/pleats as there are with some tartans. In order to achieve this effect with this particular tartan, the pleats are 4.5" deep, or 9" between stripes...





And here's Maxwell modern, pleated to the sett:



Hope that helps!

[azwildcat96]

I really like the look of a kilt pleated to the stripe. I've seen most done to a white or light color stripe, so I thought it would look a little odd with the red stripe in my Morrison weathered green tartan, so I chose pleats to the sett. I think I made the right choice.

I think I will go with pleats to the stripe for my next kilt in either Morrison red ancient or modern. Time will tell, and if it happens, I'll post pictures.

[xman]

Do some "test-pleating" using MSPaint to see which you like the best.

I've done so to the Clanranald tartan with some interesting revelations.

Pleating to the black stripe would look the most formal and show off the dark colours in the sett.


Pleating to the white stripe is still very striking, removes some blue and adds more green to the overall appearance.
Some red should show in the pleats when walking.


Pleating to the green stripe shows off the green in the sett and might flash white in a casual kilt.