Box Pleat assistance needed...

[longhuntr74]

OK...calling Barb, Matt, Josh, Hothir, etc.

I've nearly finished my friend's 8 meter tank in that purchase of Black Watch regimental weight tartan that many of us jumped on last year (only waiting for the straps and buckles so I can get them done and then install the liner). This means that I'll be getting ready to make my kilt out of the same fabric very soon.

I've decided that I don't want a full tank in this tartan, however...I want something lighter weight...more of a casual, all-purpose kilt. I considered a casual knife pleat for a bit, but I think I've decided on a box pleat. I'm also likely to use this kilt at historical reenactments on occassion.

So here's my question...what do all you box pleat kiltmakers recommend as far as pleat width(reveal), stripe vs. sett, overlap vs. gap?
My split measurements at the pleats at the hips is between 20-22"...most likely 21"...with a total hip measurement of 40.5".

I've looked at 9 pleats measuring 2 11/32" across. If I were to pleat that to 3/4 sett (which gives an effect of pleating to the sett with every other pleat being green stripe or blue field), that would give me a slight overlap of pleats on the inside. I could drop down to 8 pleats, but I kinda like the idea of having an odd number of pleats so there is a rear center pleat and the pleats start and end on the green stripe. I'd also like to keep the pleats less than 2.5" wide if I can.

The other option I've considered is pleating to stripe with a half set...but that would give a fairly narrow reveal (less than 2") and shallow pleats.

With the first option, I calculated only about 3.8 yards of fabric. Does this sound right? Are there ways to bump a Black Watch box pleated kilt up closer to 5 yards for a fairly skinny/average guy (33" waist on jeans, etc).

[Pleater]

You seem to be assuming that you only ever have three layers of material in a box pleat - that is not so.

There is the military box pleat, and the double box pleat - the first has one of what I think of as the 'arms' extended, and the second has a pair of extra 'arms' behind each pleat panel.

With the visible panels so narrow - 2.5 inches, it might be difficult to keep the folds neat if making them with only three layers of fabric, even with heavy material it might needs something more to hold the shape.

I would look at how 7 pleats 3 inches wide would fit - box pleats really don't 'do' narrow, they don't lie easy.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[BEEDEE]

Have you got Matt's addendum to TAOK with instructions for box pleat kilts?

Brian

[longhuntr74]

Have you got Matt's addendum to TAOK with instructions for box pleat kilts?

Brian

Definitely...sorry. It was "a given" that I probably should have stated up front. This question is not so much about how to make a box pleated kilt...it's more related to the fact that I find an 11" sett rather difficult to work with. It's bigger than most sets, which means that you end up with rather wide pleat reveals and have overlaps in the back. If you try to do a half set repeat, you end up with something too narrow...whereas if the sett was 15" it would be good to go.

I was planning to pleat to the green stripe...but you can't really do that with a box pleat and only get the green...as the band is only like 1.5" wide...then it transitions to the green black bands on either side...and I'm not sure I like that look. I tried to 3" pleats in three configurations:
1. Pleating to the sett with a 3/4 sett repeat: Doesn't give me enough depth in the boxes
2. Pleating to the stripe (either green band or blue field) with a full repeat: I don't like the way it looks with the black bands or the lack of any green showing
3. Pleating to the sett with a 5/4 sett repeat (basically a true pleating to the sett as you would do with a tank...just wider pleats of course): This configuration gives me the same look as option 1...but I ended up with TOO MUCH material in the boxes.

I think the best look I've developed so far is the 3/4 sett repeat with 2 5/8" (taking Anne's advice about narrow=bad) pleat reveal. This will give me 8 pleats across the back...meaning I don't have a center rear pleat and my pleats will start and end on different pleats (ie. one will be the green stripe and the opposite end will end on a blue field).

Anne...I did consider double box pleats...but I think I've decided on the standard single box pleats...I think it will give a more accurate look during reenactments...though I know that kilts in the 1760s-1780s were not sewn. But heck...If I only use 3.5 yards in this kilt, that gives me 5 3/4 yards leftover for a feilidh begh (or phillabeg).

Anyways...I have seen what Hothir and Josh (NorCalPiper) did with their box pleats...wondering if anybody else out there has done a box pleat in Regimental Weight Black Watch...did you do anything besides standard 3" pleating to the green stripe? Sorry for rambling....

[Tartan Tess]

Next time I make a box pleat I am ordering extra tartan.
I just did the U.S. Army Tartan (around a 7" sett, sorry I don't rememeber exact ) for a guy with 37" w 41" h with 4 yards and I was sweating bulletts for a while.
It was my first and I did it from the addemdum, so mabe i did something goofy. but what started it was they way the directions had me lay out the aprons with the lines in the tartan.....I lost alot of inches before I could "start" the apron area. I think the way it was cut from the bolt maybe, but it seemed like it was really a close call and i don't want to go thru that again....
It came out really nice and he loves it. quite a few things different from making a tank.

[longhuntr74]

Next time I make a box pleat I am ordering extra tartan.

I experienced that same feeling when I laid out the tank I did with that fabric...I had 8M (not yards) of fabric and figured that would give me plenty for a 40" hips measurement...I didn't even have enough to rip a strip for the fringe. I had to take it off this half I'm using now! That being said...that means that I have at least 8.25 yards of fabric for this thing...so available tartan is not an issue for me on the box kilt.

I will have an Army Tartan kilt one day...but I view that as "my" tartan...so that one will be a tank!! This one I'm making is going to be my beater kilt.

I did some pinning today...I think I've narrowed my options down to 8 pleats pleated to the green stripe, or 7 pleats pleated either to the green stripe or to the sett with a 3/4 sett repeat. With 8 pleats to the stripe, I have an overlap of over an inch on the inside of the pleats. Is this an issue? Will it make construction roublesome, or will having 5 layers just make for a better, if not somewhat warmer, kilt? Thoughts?