Cutting Walking Sticks, Questions

**Bugbear** · 19th January 11, 05:54 PM

I started cutting assorted branches from various kinds of trees for walking sticks today.
As I brought up in another thread, I have been sealing the ends and cuts with wood glue, and usually let them dry down for a couple of years.

Any advice on preparing the sticks?
Anyone peal the bark while the sticks are still green?

Finally, since I grow trees... has anyone ever tried shaping a branch into a crook as the branch grows?

Thank you.

**Gunny5711** · 19th January 11, 06:30 PM

I normally peel the bark within a day or two of cutting. I also have never
sealed the ends. The only ones I've had warp or split are willow.

I have never tried to shape a living branch. I don't have that much patience.

**llyd** · 19th January 11, 06:33 PM

Speaking as a guy who owns a sawmill, and often cuts stranglewood saplings...leave the bark on, dip the cut ends in wax, put your branches up in top of the shed or something to dry for a few months...the bark wil transpire the moisture slowly from the wood, without checking in the grain,,the wax keeps the moisture from coming out of the cut ends, also causing checking..

**Tartan Hiker** · 19th January 11, 08:38 PM

Originally Posted by Llwyd

Speaking as a guy who owns a sawmill, and often cuts stranglewood saplings...leave the bark on, dip the cut ends in wax, put your branches up in top of the shed or something to dry for a few months...the bark wil transpire the moisture slowly from the wood, without checking in the grain,,the wax keeps the moisture from coming out of the cut ends, also causing checking..

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**Bugbear** · 19th January 11, 10:12 PM

All right, thanks. what about the smaller branches that are removed, should I seal those cuts, too?

**tyger** · 20th January 11, 04:50 AM

I have, in order to keep the sticks straight, lashed green wood to something that cannot bend until the wood has dried. A 6 foot long section of pipe from a chain link fence, or galvanized water pipe, and some 3/4 inch wide strips of inner tube work for me.

**MacBean** · 20th January 11, 06:07 AM

Those who built some of the Zen temples in Japan curved their wood on the tree, and sometimes over several generations to obtain exactly the 'natural' curves they wanted for porch pillars. I love the idea.

**Pleater** · 20th January 11, 06:56 AM

Timber for ships and roofs used to be grown to the right shape and size in English woodland - it was very valuable.

My father's father was a barber, and one of the sidelines for most barbers was making walking sticks. They had a steamer out the back of the shop and would soften the materials so as to be able to shape the tops and straighten out unwanted bends.

One rather strange material used was cabbage stalks - presumably from plants used for seed, or which had 'bolted'. I have a vague recollection that they were imported from the Channel Islands.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

**Lallans** · 20th January 11, 07:03 AM

Shaping a living branch could work, but you would have to allow for the natural tendency of a tree to spring away from what it perceives as a heavy weight- I refer to the reason why it's necessary to brace a transplanted tree from more than one side. Take away the single support wire and boing! you find the tree leaning away from that point. So, I imagine that working with the tree in the way you propose will require some experimenting.

**piperdbh** · 20th January 11, 10:17 AM

I tied some gum saplings into crooks, but then sold the house (and yard where they were growing) so now that's over.

I've never sealed any walking sticks, since i don;t care wheteher they crack or not. I do like to cut them in the spring or summer when the sap's up, since i think the stick stays springier after it dries. I don't know if that's true; I just think it is.