kick pleat

[David Dubh]

I hope this is the right catagory but if not I hope the mods will move it.
I was looking at the MacKenzie Frain website. They claim that a well made kilt properly gathered will not have a kick pleat. What I want to know is, is this true and does anyone have a kilt without a kilck pleat and who did you get it from?

[Bugbear]

Ask The Wizard of BC about steeking that's probably the issue.

He explained it in detail a long while back, and said he had fixed some kilts with that issue.

[Hothir Ethelnor]

It depends on what they mean by a "kick" pleat

and kilts are not gathered...

[David Dubh]

Sorry about that Hothir you are right the kilt is not gathered. The website says "they pull the fabric into place between each and every stitch to avoid the "kick-pleat"'
The kick-pleat is the reverse pleat at the end of the under apron

[Bugbear]

Hmmm, had thought I heard kick pleat used to refer to a pleat that tends to want to stick out instead of lay flat; usually that first pleat or two off the front apron. But maybe that was flip pleat. Sorry about that.
Still think the Wizard would know.

[The Wizard of BC]

We really need to make sure we are talking about the same things. Quite often we get confused because someone uses a term differently.

From the quote you gave I assume that by "Kick Pleat" they really mean "Pleat Kick" This is where a pleat will stick out at an odd angle from the rest. It is most commonly seen at the right outer apron edge.

Under the outer apron right edge is the "Deep Pleat" and under the left edge of the under apron is the "Reverse Pleat" The Reverse Rleat should also be as deep as the Deep Pleat but because it reverses the direction of the pleats we give it a different name.

OK, "Pleat Kick" can be caused by; (in no particular order)
Improper or missing Steeking.
Fabric distortion.
Insufficiant or missing apron taper.
An ill fitting kilt, especially one that is too small in the hips.
Lower right strap cinched too tight.
Poor or inaccurate pressing when made or cleaned.

Kicking Pleats are often found on off the rack kilts. Any kiltmaker worth their salt will not release a kilt that the Pleats kick on.

[fluter]

Thanks, Steve! That must be what they meant.

Otherwise, my brain insisted on hearing Joni Mitchell...

Papa don't like my kick-pleat skirt.
Mama don't like my eyelids painted green.

[David Dubh]

Thanks Steve. I took the kick-pleat to mean the first pleat as you come of the apron on the right into the pleated portion of the kilt. This is what the kilt maker who moved my straps when I lost weight refered to. The outer apron will now cover the "kick-pleat" is what she had said.

[llyd]

Crrrappp. NOW this thread comes along...after I figured it out the hard way..

[Steve Ashton]

OK, here is the problem.

You went to a dress maker and she said "The outer apron will now cover the "kick-pleat" is what she had said."

The confusion is that she was using a term from dress making.
To her a "Kick Pleat" is a reverse box pleat inserted into a skirt to allow it to open.
Often made from a contrasting color they "flash" the color similar to what we see with pleats when we swish.

Here is a ladies skirt with "Kick pleats".



In our kilt words what she was saying is that she adjusted the size of the kilt until the outer apron covered the "Reverse pleat" correctly.