Tweed: how thick is too thick for a hemmed kilt?

[usonian]

As autumn is ushering in cooler weather, my thoughts are finally turning to a length of tartan I acquired over the summer: Munro Hunting in Harris Tweed. It's a lovely piece of fabric, and I purchased it with the intention of turning it into a 4-yard box pleated kilt per Barbara and Matt's companion instructions to The Art of Kiltmaking.

It has a finished edge on both sides. Not perfectly crisp, but given the rustic character of the tweed I'd be fine with using it as-is. The only catch is that there's a single light thread woven right along the edge... perhaps a floating selvedge used during weaving:





With a piece of worsted wool tartan I would just hem the edge to hide that thread, but this tweed is a bit thicker than the 16oz worsted wool I used for my last kilt... and combined with the fact that (from what I've read here) tweed doesn't hold as crisp of an edge I'm concerned about a hemmed edge being bulky and bulgy, particularly in the pleats.

I was wondering if Matt or any other kiltmakers who work with tweed have any thoughts about how thick is *too* thick when it comes to hemming a tweed kilt. I know it's hard to advise without being able to handle the cloth, but any general thoughts or observations would be much appreciated. Thanks!

-Andy