A choice between doublets

**Sir Didymous** · 11th June 13, 06:34 PM

I'm working on building my kilt wear wardrobe and am at a point of indecision. I like the look of doublets for formal and semi-formal attire, more so than Argyles and PCs. But the question I have been toying with is what kind? There are Regulation, Kenmore, Sheriffmuir, Montrose, and I am sure that there are others that I have over looked. So if you were to pick, which would you choose? Vote and respond with your reasons.

**Nathan** · 11th June 13, 06:46 PM

Doublets are generally formal wear so a doublet won't replace an argyll but it can conceivably replace the Charlie. For Black tie, I like the look of a regulation doublet. It's a lot like a PC but is just different enough to not look cookie cutter.

Personally I have a PC and two formal doublets. I have a kenmore/balmoral doublet in Green Barrathea and a black velvet doublet (kind of like a single breasted Montrose). I like having choice.

The only time I've seen a doublet work for semi-formal (North American meaning - business suit equivalent) is Matt Newsome's tweed Sherrifmuir doublet and waistcoat, but that is a unique and beautiful garment but it is also one that defies convention by it's very nature, juxtaposing a formal cut with a hearty country cloth.

Again all that is to say that if you get a fancy doublet, it doesn't replace the Argyll and unless it's a regulation doublet, it doesn't really replace the PC either. You may find you are overdressed at many occasions.

**LitTrog** · 11th June 13, 06:54 PM

I agree with Nathan that doublets will generally (the Newsome exception noted) not be appropriate for semi-formal events, but if you really want to have a doublet available to you, I vote for the Sheriffmuir. I've only had the occasion to wear mine a few times, but I love the look of it. Will not be confused with a PC the way a Regulation might (to untrained eyes like mine) and is much cooler and less confining than the Montrose is reported to be.

*EDIT: As you can see, it works just as well without all the frilly, lacy stuff

**Father Bill** · 11th June 13, 07:33 PM

And the Sheriffmuir is more forgiving if you add an ounce or two to your girth.

**OC Richard** · 11th June 13, 08:04 PM

Yes I want this one! A nice Thomas Gordon & Son melton doublet...

Or this one!

Yep I've always wanted this one, the nearly universal doublet style c1850-c1910. This evolved into the Regulation Doublet, but I prefer the original.

The early years of the 20th century saw a suite of new doublets introduced. Judging from my vintage catalogues the first new one was "the Coatee" or the "Prince Charlie" as we call it. Then the Montrose and Kenmore, strange in their quasi-military standup collars (quite rare for civilian doublets in the 19th century). Not sure about the Sherrifmuir but it doesn't appear in my catalogues from the 1920s and 30s.

**Cygnus** · 11th June 13, 10:16 PM

I voted for the Regulation Doublet because it's a pretty versatile piece of clothing - not only does it do black- and white-tie equally well, but it's more forgiving of fluctuations of the waistline than most doublets.

That said, if I had more financial and diametric stability, I'd probably opt for a velvet Balmoral doublet...

**David Thorpe** · 12th June 13, 05:26 AM

Originally Posted by Sir Didymous

I like the look of doublets for formal and semi-formal attire, more so than Argyles and PCs.

A doublet won't replace a tweed Argyle for day wear. It is strictly a formal evening wear garment, and would look totally out of place for anything besides a formal evening occasion. (Matt's beautiful tweed Sheriffmuir is in a class by itself.)

**artificer** · 12th June 13, 05:41 AM

Originally Posted by David Thorpe

A doublet won't replace a tweed Argyle for day wear. It is strictly a formal evening wear garment, and would look totally out of place for anything besides a formal evening occasion. (Matt's beautiful tweed Sheriffmuir is in a class by itself.)

+2

Unless you want to look madly overdressed, leave the doublet at home until after 6pm.

I've been on the fence between a velvet Balmoral doublet and a velvet Sheriffmuir. I like the closed up simplicity of the Balmoral, but don't particularly care to wear a dirk belt.
I also like the flexibility of the Sheriffmuir in that I could wear either my tartan waistcoat or the velvet one I'd order with the doublet.
The forgiveness in waist fluctuation is also a huge bonus with the Sheriffmuir.

In the end I voted Sheriffmuir.

ith:

**creagdhubh** · 12th June 13, 05:54 AM

I voted for the Regulation Doublet. I'm just a big fan of it's overall style, look and versatility. It can easily be made of coloured velvet or black barathea wool and also looks quite smart paired up with either a tartan or scarlet coloured waistcoat. I have a Regulation doublet made by Kinloch Anderson in excellent, like new condition up for sale here on the forum.

Cheers,

**MacCathmhaoil** · 12th June 13, 06:15 AM

I have a beautiful black velvet Balmoral/Kenmore hybrid type that has silver targe buttons. It looks almost identical to the one that Macleod of Macleod is wearing in the well know portrait. It can be dressed up with a jabot or cravat or worn down a bit with a silk bow tie. I do have a Sheriffmuir in black barathea as well but I rarely get to wear it.