Kilt jacket - from scratch

**Andrew Breecher** · 14th July 14, 08:04 AM

This is going to be a project that takes me a long time to complete, but I've begun to make a tailored kilt jacket and waistcoat (I hope I have enough cloth for both). This weekend I drafted the jacket, and then cut it out of the cloth and thread marked it.

**Blupiper** · 14th July 14, 08:33 AM

Andrew:

Wow. I think I'll stay here on shore--that looks like deep water! Good luck and we will all want to see the results. Are you working from a pattern or are your skills beyond that?

JMB

**sydnie7** · 14th July 14, 08:49 AM

On the watch list here as well! I have a set cut out but got distracted (by our last house moving adventure) before putting needle to fabric. And it's plain weave, I didn't have the nerve to tackle matching a pattern as well!

You are a brave fellow and have my admiration.

**ratspike** · 14th July 14, 08:56 AM

I'm keeping tabs on your progress as well and look forward to updates. I've wanted to tackle making a vest but quite frankly, it's so intimidating that I never get around to trying.

**usonian** · 14th July 14, 08:56 AM

Wow - I can't wait to see how this turns out; this is one of those projects that is my queue but never quite seems to make it to the top.

**GMan** · 14th July 14, 01:55 PM

I admire you for even trying. Yet I know that you will do a mighty fine job.

**brewerpaul** · 14th July 14, 04:41 PM

Best of luck and have fun making your jacket. I made, well finished, my first kilt jacket last year and wore it 4-5 times in the winter. I modified the Simplicity 5029 pattern to my needs and used coat weight herringbone tweed in a darker grey. It was a fun project and I learned a lot from it that will be used on my next jacket made from suit weight wool. Ill keep checking in to see how your project progresses... Happy Sewing.

**Elf** · 14th July 14, 08:03 PM

Best of luck and I look forward to a happy conclusion. I hope it is not too early for a couple thoughts. First, when I tackled a jacket, I went to the public library for a book on tailoring. If you haven't done the inner structure of a jacket before, I would recommend some looking into something more in depth than common sewing machine patterns. They tend to skimp on the French canvas and hair canvas assemblies. Secondly, you sound unsure about having enough fabric. One could make the back of the vest of a secondary fabric. I like wool all around if wearing the waistcoat on its own, but if you wear it with the jacket that is not necessary. Above all, take your time and don't give up. The fabric looks very nice. Again, best wishes.

**HippieLee** · 14th July 14, 08:54 PM

Best of luck! Looking forward to the end result.

**Andrew Breecher** · 15th July 14, 04:40 AM

Thanks all for your kind words!

This is a pattern which I drafted myself, based on a Tailor & Cutter (British tailoring trade magazine) suit jacket pattern. I thought of using an old pattern from the 1880s specifically for a kilt jacket, but I wanted to keep more modern lines.

I'm very familiar with the internal structure of a jacket, and am working now on preparing the canvas and hair cloth. There will be no fusibles in this jacket - everything will be pad stitched with a floating canvas.

I'm only worried about running out of cloth because of having to match the plaid pattern. At least it's a simple repeat, but it does use more cloth than a stripe or plain cloth would. When I bought it I only had a jacket in mind, and not also a vest. The back of the waistcoat will definitely be made of lining material.