Is there a story behind the buttons? (Argyll Jacket - Antique)

[LaidlawBell]

Hi all.

As some of you many know. I have recently acquired an evening kilt set comprising of a number of piece. So far we have been able to date the goat hair sporran (in previous thread) to around the late 19th C / Early 20th - Thanks to the Scottish silver markings in place.

I thought I would make a start into the Argyll jacket that came with the lot. It features satin / silk lapels , waist pockets with button detail, cuff decoration with button detail (cuffs look to have been lengthened at some stage?) and a 'short' double rear vent. Now wheather this item was bought later I cannot be certain. It certainly looks to have some age to it with pulling around the inside neck area , button at waist and lining. - The sleeve lining also looks to have been altered / repaired at some stage (now white nylon material with open seams at underarms) - I'm sure it originally was black. With regards to the material it looks to be a wool blend , or even cotton blend - It is quite difficult to put my finger on it. - Note - Entry to the waist pocket is from the top seam, rather than flap / vent.

The first thing that caught my eye when looking over this item were the buttons. Do they have any meaning? or simply there for decoration purposes.... Any help would be appreciated.

I look forward to hearing back. - I am happy to add further images should anyone care to see the entire lot.

Note - All info will be used to help catalogue each item before sale - Credit will also be noted to all that can lend a hand.

I have opened a new thread so not to confuse other readers.

All the best. Gillan.


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[MacRobert's Reply]

That design of button dates from the 1820s. They were often reused on to replacement jackets. However, later copies of that design have also been made. The items illustrated on them are all Scottish Highland weapons. Some of these buttons were silver, others plated or white metal. Check on the back for any hallmarks or makers' marks ... they may be antique silver!

[LaidlawBell]

Well I'm learning a lot today - A quick check and no hallmarks to be seen, unfortunately. One thing I did notice straight away was how cold they were, which would suggest they are possibly metal buttons?

Thanks for the info. I will be sure to use it within my listing.

Would you say 1920s/30s going on the style & cut?

Thanks again.

Gillan.

[MacRobert's Reply]

Your dating of the jacket as 1920s or 30s looks correct. The lapel width is the strongest clue as things like the double vent, single button, gauntlet cuffs and scalloped pockets are common from before the Victorian era to the present.

The pockets are interesting with opening above the flap only.

[figheadair]

Check inside of the inside pocket, assuming there is one. I have a jacket of a not too dissimilar style that was made by Andersons in 1943.

[LaidlawBell]

Thank you both for taking the time to reply.

I have checked the inside pocket and there doesn't seen to be a label there.

- The Tam o' Shanter that came with the lot did include a label by W. Anderson & Sons Ltd (Kinloch Anderson) so there is a high possibility that it may have been tailored by them. Perhaps we can date it from this label?

Regards, Gillan.

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[Mike S]

That is a Balmoral, not a Tam o' Shanter BTW. There is a difference.

[OC Richard]

Thanks for posting those photos. I'd not seen those buttons before.

For around a half-century now the buttons used on Scottish Evening jackets have been mostly of one style, square with the Gaelic inscription.

It's cool to go back to an earlier period when there was more variety.

Yes it appears to be a thistle surrounded by weaponry.

BTW I've noticed how the traditional Highland weapon that somebody isn't wearing can show up in other places on the costume, such as the person wearing a sgian and dirk, his kilt pin being a sword and targe, or the person wearing only a sgian having a kilt pin in the design of a dirk.

This these buttons you'll only need to wear a sgian, as everything else is taken care of.

[LaidlawBell]

That is a Balmoral, not a Tam o' Shanter BTW. There is a difference.

Thank you for informing me. I'm still very much in the learning phases , as you may have gathered from previous posts. I appreciate the time taken to reply. Every comment will be used to help catalogue each item.

Regards.

[blackwatch70]

Thank you both for taking the time to reply.

I have checked the inside pocket and there doesn't seen to be a label there.

- The Tam o' Shanter that came with the lot did include a label by W. Anderson & Sons Ltd (Kinloch Anderson) so there is a high possibility that it may have been tailored by them. Perhaps we can date it from this label?

Hi, Kinloch Anderson is still alive, so you could ask them directly for most definite answer.

http://www.kinlochanderson.com/

regards,
Mikhail