Kilt Kamp 2019 Contemporary course information

[Steve Ashton]

I am very sorry but the Contemporary component of Kilt Kamp 2019 in NY has been cancelled.

I will be holding Contemporary kiltmaking courses here on the west coast and will post in the near future.

The book "The Hand Crafted Contemporary Kilt" is still on track and when available, I will post.



For those who would like to attend Kilt Kamp here is a little information about the Contemporary side of the course.

A Contemporary Kilt is not just a Utility style. It can look and swish just like the kilts that Barb makes. The primary differences are summed up by the DFF&P difference.

The "D" stands for Durability. The Contemporary style has features which increase the durability of the garment making it suitable for daily or more rugged wearing. For example we commonly eliminate the strap hole on the left side of Contemporary kilts to eliminate the built in weak point.

The first "F" stands for Fit. The Contemporary style can be made to fit at Full Waist Height, Mid Waist height, or even Low Waist Height. The bottom can be made to hit the knee where ever the wearer desires.

The second "F" stands for Fabric. You may choose to make your kilt out of almost any fabric. Kilt wool, a Poly/Rayon blend, Polysester/Cotton blends. You can make your kilt from Tartan or solid colored fabrics.

And finally we come to the "P" which stands for Pockets. Guy clothing today has to have pockets. You can choose what style of pocket, how many, and where to place them, to suit your personal needs.

A Contemporary kilt may be hand stitched (left or right handed) or machine stitched. If you wish no stitching to show on the outside of your kilt, you may choose to hand stitch the Fell Area and those places like the apron facings where lines of machine stitching would show.
But even a hand stitched Contemporary kilt will have some elements stitched with a sewing machine for the additional strength.

As an example of what is possible - Here is a Contemporary style kilt designed with a Mid Waist Height/Top of Kneecap fit. Hand stitched from 16oz wool. Pleated to display the Red Stripe. With 3 hidden pockets.





If you wish to attend the Contemporary kilt making course, I ask that you bring a sewing machine. Even if you will be hand stitching the majority of your kilt.

I am also going to ask at least one student if they could bring a steam iron. We use steam and pressure to press and set the pleats and to mold the fabric into the final 3 dimensional shape, so an iron with a separate chamber where the steam is generated is almost a must. Barb will have her steam iron in her classroom but it is much easier if we do not have to run down the hall just to press our kilts.



You will need some fabric. If you wish to make a Tartan kilt from wool you may purchase your fabric yourself or though Barb or me. If you wish to use Poly/Rayon Tartan I may be able to get you a better price with my commercial account. If you choose to order your fabric through Barb or I, we do ask that you plan well in advance so that your fabric arrives in plenty of time for the course.

How much fabric you will need for your kilt will depend on a few factors.
The circumference of your hips.
The Sett size of the Tartan you choose.
The type of pleats you wish to fold the pleats of your kilt into.
And how you wish the Tartan pattern to be displayed in the pleats.

A Contemporary kilt will usually require 1/4 additional yard of fabric than an iconic kilt due to the addition of the Side Slash Pockets.

But, on average -
4.25 yards, D/W for hips up to, or less than, 45 inches.
4.5 yards, D/W for hips between 45 & 50 inches.
4.75 - 5.0 yards, D/W for hips greater then 50 inches.

If you have questions about how much fabric to order please contact me.

I also ask is that you let me know which type of fabric you will be using to make your kilt so I can plan my lessons accordingly.



You will need some tools.

My suggested tools list include -

A straight edge - approx 24-36 inches long.
A ruler - Either on the straight edge or separate. You may choose to measure in Metric or Imperial but may I suggest a ruler with both. I suggest a plastic see-through ruler.
A tailors or dressmakers flexible tape measure. For taking your kilt size measurements.
Fabric scissors.
Trim scissors.
Some straight dress makers pins. I suggest those with large heads to make them easier to see and remove.
Some bent quilters safety pins.
A good fitting thimble. You may be more comfortable with the dressmakers fingertip style thimble, Barb's leather one, or the British ring style I use.
Hand stitching needles. Some fine for sewing pleats and some rugged for sewing the straps.
A chunk of Beeswax.
A marking tool. This can be tailors chalk, a Chaco brand chalk marker, or a chalk pencil. (The color should contrast against your fabric to be easily seen.)



(Believe it or not 99% of this stuff fits into the small fishing tackle box you see at the top.)



You will need between 2 and 5 - 110 yard, spools of sewing thread to make your kilt. How much thread you will need really depends on your choices you make for your kilt.
Fabrics with Cotton require the pleats to be edge stitched so take more thread than a wool kilt. If you decide to add things like Cargo Pockets you will require more thread than a kilt without.
Sewing by machine will require a little more thread than hand stitching.
When choosing thread I strongly suggest a 100% Polyester thread like the Gutterman brand. Please avoid the so called "All purpose" threads that are cotton wrapped as they just ball up like rats nest when you try to sew with them.

When choosing thread color I would suggest that you take a piece of your fabric along to the fabric store. Choose a thread in a color slightly darker than the color of the fabric. If you have to choose pick a color slightly darker v.s. one slightly lighter than the fabric color. If you will be sewing a Tartan kilt you may want to choose 3 spools closest to the primary color of the background and one additional spool each, of the accent colors.

You will also need some strong thread like button thread or upholstery thread for sewing on your straps and buckles.

If you are unsure of what color thread to buy please contact me and I may be able to help.
If you will be ordering your fabric through Barb or myself we can also pick your thread for you if you wish.



In addition to your kilt fabric you will need some accessories -

2 or 3 - 1 1/4 inch wide kilt straps and buckles. You can purchase these yourself or through Barb or myself.
You will need 1 to 1/1/4 yards of cotton broadcloth 24-36 inches wide for the liner of your kilt if you are hand-stitching. Black is the most common color but the color and/or pattern choice is really up to you.
You will need enough hair canvas, 9-11 inches wide, to go around your hips three times.



Please bring pencil and paper. You will be taking a lot of notes.

And each Contemporary Kamper will receive a copy of "The Hand-Crafted Contemporary Kilt" as part of your registration fee.



Would each person please contact me directly if you will be attending the Contemporary kilt making class. steve@freedomkilts.com

[StevieR]

Steve, is your guide available to those unable to attend the course?

[Steve Ashton]

The book "The Hand Crafted Contemporary Kilt" (or THCCK for short) should be back from the publisher just before Kamp.

We are looking at both hard copies similar to Barb's book and USB sticks for those who prefer to work from a pad or computer.

We are currently looking at copyright protection options.

[Standard]

One of these days I'm going to get to attend this! Looks like another great year!

[cyxa]

I too someday shall make it here. Perhaps after I weave my cloth?

[Tobinn]

Just checking in to see when this book might be released upon the unsuspecting public.