NH noob with fancy tartan weaving ambition

[NHhighlander]

Hi all,

This is Yama, from snowy (today) Franklin, New Hampshire (yes, we thought winter was over, but not quite)

VERY noob regarding all things tartan and weaving, pardon the errors in terminology, etc.

At times, I might give the false impression that "I know everything already... "
That is not intended, just trying to do my homework, be prepared.
Please feel free to correct me if you feel I'm mistaken,
or if I could benefit from another idea or viewpoint.

I really want to learn!

Short:

I'm not sure what I need, because I don't know yet.
So far, I want to learn about weaving, tartan, adequate/acceptable kilt-wearing etiquette.
Very open to advice!


Long, way too long

the crazy project:
Full:
dress in proper, full kilt attire at my wife's clan meet in Scotland, in August.
Simple? Hmm.
I want it to be "real."
To quote Duke Forrest, that philosopher from Georgia, "where I come from, it's real if you make it yourself."
More on that anon.

Quarter way project (sort of immediate, upcoming):
By April's end, have an operational loom able to weave 7-inch tartan "samples."
MUST (and that's where the fun comes in) achieve what our very esteemed colleague Peter E. MacDonald calls "total border," with herringbone and Bids-Eye.


Current status:

This morning, achieved "theoretic" prototype of settings for a 4-heddle loom to complete 20-thread wide and tall Birds-Eye, and of course herringbone for both the sides and the top and bottom of a Total Border pattern, with standard 2-2 twill in between.
This was a neat math/geometry challenge, took a few hours of intense attention! Now to see if I can make it become.

The purpose of an 8-inch loom is twofold: First, hone skills when it comes to building and using a loom with heddles "in Real Life," second, make very nice tartan sett samplers fit for framing and show and encouragement and companionship.
I am inspired by the Maclaine Plaid "Total Border" pattern described in an article by Peter Elsea MacDonald's, https://www.scottishtartans.co.uk/A_...buie_Plaid.pdf

As of a month ago and picking up steam, earnestly gathering and studying information and materials regarding tartans, kilts, weaving, looms...
Read and got inspired and confused by blogs and many articles on the Internet. Decided to just do things the way that has worked well for me in previous ventures, which is to build technology from scratch, focusing on the end result.
Sounds too proud for my own good, but, alas, because of my learning difficulties, this approach just works for me better.

Yet, I'm striving to learn from masters, and also amateurs and explorers in these crafts, and share - that's why I am here!

• Printed, re-read, highlighted three articles by P. MacDonald regarding what he names Total Border, a way-too-cool weaving pattern in the plaids selvedge.
• B. Tewksbury's Art of Kiltmaking.
  It's really worth visiting her website also, besides the book from Amazon, several valuable addenda to the book for free download, such as color pictures, the box-pleated kilt instructions, and definitely read the FAQ, the best one-page of information vital to anyone inspired to go the DIY kilt way!
  https://www.theartofkiltmaking.com/how-to-book.html
• von Rosenstiel's Loom Construction. At first I thought of making 1/4 scale of each of his looms one by one, decided I'll make them full-size after a very cute but not preactical 1/4 inkle loom I built.
  https://www.vialibri.net/searches?au...sort=price.asc
• E. Worst's Foot-Power Loom Weaving. A true classic, in all nuances of the word.
  https://archive.org/search?query=Wor...r+Loom+Weaving
• Many more "greats" out there, a look at MacLachlan's will not be wasted, et c.
  
• got some Merino yarn from China, cheapest option on Amazon, to start experimenting with natural dyes.
  In an almost previous life, 40 years ago in my parents' farm, I had incredible results with lichens.
  We'll see how that works now.
• I am inspired on the hypothesis that tartan colors were a very local thing, according to what local dyes were available (will have to cheat regarding cochineal, even though I did have my own when we lived in Texas, prior to finding our way to the 'Shire 4 years ago). I do grow my own indigo, reasonably handy with mordants, my Dad did extensive research on those, way back, I inherited his samples.
• "Obviously" when I make THE tartan for THE kilt etc., I'll do it with homespun, but, as Daddy used to say, one problem at a time.
  

"solved" what I feel are major potential bottlenecks when it comes to building my own loom,

• the worst problem was where she will go...
  Finally cleared enough space in the basement, took me weeks!
  Might have to reconsider because of noise, as the weather warms up I'll move to the shed or something outside.
• the reed. Several false starts, I feel that the winner will use stainless steel strapping band. We'll see, will keep you posted.
• The shuttles. First attempts for a boat-type shuttle were no good. I'm too lazy to use the flat stick type. Got a few ideas, and plenty wood tools.
  Eventually I want to have a flying shuttle setup, which is noisy, unless some clever tricks that I want to explore. As we said, one problem at a time.

Where I'm coming from:
A "highlander" by birth, in Bolivia, 13,000 feet above sea level (beat that!), from VERY multicultural and polyvalent parents.
Dad a geologist by "trade," by nature a polymath citizen scientist, tinkerer and artist, oftentimes a University professor.
Mom was a professional, classic-trained ceramist and arts teacher and professor.
Sister is amazing. Currently going for bean-to-bar chocolate.

I got the good side of ADHD, meaning, creative and rather unafraid of trying things what no expert-in-the-art person would...
And of course some of the not-so-good, as I have to make a conscious effort at completing projects - and I talk too much, as you can see!

In the '80s, we did the "back to the land" '70s thing, which was perhaps both the best and worst decision the family ever did. For 16 years in Uruguay surrounded by nature and sheep, but having to have a job in the nearest city because a farm don't pay... I was a teacher. Fun, useful, doesn't pay.
One good day, it was cold, I wrapped a blanket on my back before hitting the field. To hold it in place, I tied a rope around the waist. As I was working with the sheep it was practical to wrap the blanket on top of the rope, and then pull it back over my head when walking to-and-fro under that drizzle. Dad said something about how I looked Scottish, but I didn't pay much attention then.
It was only this week, 40 years later, that I learned that I had back then "re-invented" the Great Kilt, just like that.
And I like that concept so much, that I am now ambivalent if now I want to make a modern kilt, or "just" a blanket that wears as a Great Kilt...

Eventually, I married the prettiest girl in Texas, definitely the best decision I ever made.
And then, we came both to New Hampshire! Yay!

Now we're quite engaged into "discovering our Scot" (motto of the local Highland Games), together.
She's by birth a Duncan, and myself a Płoskonka Gorale from the mountains of south Poland, and also part of the Aimara Nation from the Bolivian Altiplano, so it all fits together, right? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gorals https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aymara_people

My mom's tapestry was a national-prize winner in Uruguay, where they take wool tapestry rather seriously...
As a child, I grew around Aimara homespun cloth, wore it (itchy!), grew up to make some, even sheep-to-cloth in one day...

Yet, until this month, I had never figured out that heddles are so easy!, to make and use. Mom had one rigid heddle, which was a precious heirloom.
To know now that I can make my own, with just some string, is bittersweet... Dad forever and a day wanted to weave, but we never figured out the heddle bottleneck. Sigh.
I am extremely curious regarding how technology innovation comes and goes.
Did the few weavers skilled enough to make Total Border leave Scotland and more to Cape Breton?
Why don't Aimara weavers, with thousands of years of experience, use heddles? or Uruguayan ones, who have so many trainings, etc., either?

In a way, it all is coming together now.

As I have specific questions, and/or something useful to share, I'll be around.
Meanwhile, I will take that advice of one poster of XmarkstheScott gave, "don't overcomplicate it."

Yama

[Father Bill]

Welcome from Canada to the "Great Rabble"!

[NHhighlander]

Welcome from Canada to the "Great Rabble"!

Hi, Rev'd!
now that I see your nick and sig, it seems to me that it was yours that message that I saw a while back when lurking, with the advice that I quoted.

Yes, not overcomplicating things is good advice!
There being so much that we can choose to either be nervous about and let our fears stop us, or instead just be plain decent in intention and deed, and move on to achieve.

Thank you!

Yama

[Jock Scot]

Welcome, from Inverness-shire. Don't overthink your kilt attire requirements, certainly from the start! So one kilt, one smart shirt, one medium weight pullover, one pair of hose(green is a good start),perhaps, a plain sporran and strap and a sensible pair of black lace up shoes. That is all that is required for a start. Everything else can be added on quietly as your experience grows. Good luck!

Oh and, HURRY SLOWLY!!!!!!

[Liam]

Welcome to the forum from Canada!

[jsrnephdoc]

Hi all,

…

VERY noob regarding all things tartan and weaving, pardon the errors in terminology, etc.

At times, I might give the false impression that "I know everything already... "
That is not intended, just trying to do my homework, be prepared.
Please feel free to correct me if you feel I'm mistaken,
or if I could benefit from another idea or viewpoint.

I really want to learn!

Short:

I'm not sure what I need, because I don't know yet.
So far, I want to learn about weaving, tartan, adequate/acceptable kilt-wearing etiquette.
Very open to advice!

…

the crazy project:
Full:
dress in proper, full kilt attire at my wife's clan meet in Scotland, in August.

Um, just out of the box, you're WAY ahead of most of us, including probably some who've never left a home village in the Orkney Islands!!!!!!!!

HOWEVER, I'll still offer a few suggestions:
'
1. Make the acquantance of Barb Tewksbury. You'll mesh in more than one universe, since she's a planetary geologist (tag line, "brain for rocks.")
2. Attend that clan gathering, even if you're no closer to kilted perfection than not even out of the starting gate. My sister's been to two, and she enjoyed them immensely, even though she was then just a high schooler tagging along with her parents!
3. Since you're interested in weaving, make a point of a trip to Lochcarron Mills, who offer a REALLY interesting tour of their weaving facility in Selkirk, Scottish Borders. They're pretty good at weaving (about a month after we took that tour, a guy whose first name is bracketed by MANY initials at both ends (first name Charles) was photographed there talking to the same lovely matron who gave US a lesson in patience while she talked about exorcising a repeating single transverse error in a 30 meter bolt of tartan using a hand-held needle that removed the "oops" thread and replaced it with the proper one).
4. If you go to Edinburgh, visit the Royal Britannia yacht. Fascinating tour.

And, calling yourself a NOOBIE sounds like Robert Oppenheimer telling someone he was trying to learn a bit about physics!

[NHhighlander]

Welcome, from Inverness-shire. Don't overthink your kilt attire requirements, certainly from the start!

<snip>

Oh and, HURRY SLOWLY!!!!!!

Hi Jock Scot!

Thank you, doubtlessly wise advice that I will be digesting and ask for some details later

[NHhighlander]

Um, just out of the box, you're WAY ahead of most of us, including probably some who've never left a home village in the Orkney Islands!!!!!!!!

HOWEVER, I'll still offer a few suggestions:
'
<snip>

And, calling yourself a NOOBIE sounds like Robert Oppenheimer telling someone he was trying to learn a bit about physics!

Powerful stuff, @jsrnephdoc!

I feel enormously honored.
Big time.

The best of it: feels like I am finding here people with brains and skills AND a sense of humor AND a desire to connect with others. I hope I'm able to give as good as I take. Thank you!

As to the specific advice, every point an actionable item, that I will follow through, as I catch up with life. I'm a farmer, and this is the busiest season of the year, right after the thaw, not really too clever of me to start this additional project on top of things that wait for nobody.

And I will be earning my real spurs along the way, especially as I learn to welcome others like you do it.

THANK YOU!

Yama

[Pleater]

NHhighlander, I have always had inclinations towards weaving, I have a couple of small looms and developed a hybrid crochet/weaving technique which is quite portable, but was too busy to go the whole hog and get a full size loom.

Turns out it is in my DNA. Two of my patrilinear ancestors were blacklisted for agitating for a living wage two hundred years ago, in the linen weaving industry of south Yorkshire - they had their own looms and workshop, but ended their days being supported by female factory workers in cotton mills - the sons had to leave the trade as they were identified by their surname. Hand loom weaver goes back as the family trade for generations before the time of the Chartists.

I also have the patience required to mend weaving flaws, and to spin using a spindle and a wheel, starting from the fleece rather than prepared fibre - I know the names of the sheep and alpacas.

Back in the day I used to dye yarn and garments - I never was very particular about it being plant based or petroleum, being more interested in getting the colour than any sort of correctness in sourcing. I've had a go with most things - including indigo. When dyeing remember to wear gloves - you too can be dyed.

I'd advise not going over the top when deciding what to wear for that clan gathering - in my travels as musician and singer of folk songs I see many people in costume, but also those who put on the garments as though they were born to it.

Anne the Pleater

[NHhighlander]

NHhighlander, I have always had inclinations towards weaving, I have a couple of small looms and developed a hybrid crochet/weaving technique which is quite portable, but was too busy to go the whole hog and get a full size loom.

Turns out it is in my DNA. Two of my patrilinear ancestors were blacklisted for agitating for a living wage two hundred years ago, in the linen weaving industry of south Yorkshire - they had their own looms and workshop, but ended their days being supported by female factory workers in cotton mills - the sons had to leave the trade as they were identified by their surname. Hand loom weaver goes back as the family trade for generations before the time of the Chartists.

<snip>

When dyeing remember to wear gloves - you too can be dyed.

Now you tell me!

I'd advise not going over the top when deciding what to wear for that clan gathering - in my travels as musician and singer of folk songs I see many people in costume, but also those who put on the garments as though they were born to it.

Anne the Pleater

Hi Anne!

So many reflections, your message brings...

What we do is what we are is what we do? For generations...

My Socialdemocrat Central-Europe ancestors have had quite a ride in my own life. If nothing else, and combined with being born in one of the richest and also among the most corrupt countries in the Americas, I have been raised to respect labor, the hard work of those born to toil - and also to notice and recognize how incredibly blessed I am, to be able to enjoy moments like these, to pursue a craft, after my own years of work, while I still keep to farming.

Yes, keep it simple is wise. Dad used to quote the Beatles, "keep it simple, we can always complicate it later." In this and this whole adventure of weaving, it's his creativity that inspires me, while I hope that my Mom's "stick-to-itiveness" will accompany me also. Adding a thread of yarn after another, it's a metaphor for our place in the roll of generations, isn't it?

BTW, I am seeing your comments in several posts related to weaving and such. Looks like there will be much to learn from your experience, thank you.

Yama