A question about kilt construction?

[The Kilted Reverend]

Rabble,

I am posing this to anyone who can answer my question, maybe more for a kilt maker...I dunno.

Anywho, I have heard it mentioned here several times and I am still in the dark so my question is in the construction of a kilt what exactly is the fell, where is it located, what does it do?

I have begun a money saving plan to be able to order a Premier Kilt in the Clark/Clergy tartan from Rocky. So any other things I need to ask for to get the best fitting kilt I can get would be greatly appreciated.

I know that Rocky will me make a great kilt (not that kind of great kilt.)

Slainte

TKR

[Rex_Tremende]

the fell is the stitched down part of the pleats that tapers in from the widest part of your bum to the waist.

[ForresterModern]

the fell is the stitched down part of the pleats that tapers in from the widest part of your bum to the waist.

Rex,

Remember that it does not necessarily taper from bum to waist in some of us gutted wonders, or might even taper the reverse direction.

[RockyR]

Rex,

Remember that it does not necessarily taper from bum to waist in some of us gutted wonders, or might even taper the reverse direction.

A kilt should NEVER taper the reverse direction... if CAN be a 'tube' for guys with no hips and a big belly, but it should NOT taper in.

When we get an order with measurements for a kilt where the hips are smaller, we STILL give them a little outward taper... IE: if someone gives us measurements 40 X 38 X 24, we'll make the kilt 40 X 40 or 41 X 24.

[Pleater]

Remember that we exist in three dimensions - that is, there is still a shaping to be made to narrow the pleats from the hips to the waist - stand sideways in front of a long mirror and you should see that - or just use your hands if you are alone or with someone who will not start to look at you oddly if you start to feel how you round out below the waist at the back, or curve inwards at the front.

Even if the actual hip measurement is smaller than the waist the kilt is going to be hanging, not clinging to the body, so the actual measurement of the kilt at hip level - unless someone has a very peculiar body shape - is over half the total measurement for the hips at the back, plus over half the waist measurement at the front. What percentage more depends on an individual's shape and stance.

Anne the Pleater

[Rex_Tremende]

Rex,

Remember that it does not necessarily taper from bum to waist in some of us gutted wonders, or might even taper the reverse direction.

Not to repeat what Rocky and Anne have said, but after Ryan Ross posted his reply, I thought to add that in my case I do prefer to have my rise taper out in reverse a bit, but that is in the upward direction - creating a slight hourglass shape - and results in a more comfortable kilt. But this is for my body in particular. It would require a different solution if I had rock-hard abs or a Buddha-belly.

Regards,
Rex.

[Pleater]

Oh yes - above the waist, the rise, the kilt follows the body shape and curves outwards, so when made right and buckled on correctly the top of the kilt settles above the natural waist rather than on it.

The tailoring above the waist is - I suspect - directly connected to the different proportions of males and females, as kilts worn at a man's natural waist and at the normal length of the top of the kneecap are not in proportion to their height. By extending the top of the kilt this imbalance is corrected and gives a visually pleasing division of the body. It is probably one of those 'Golden mean' measurements.

The longer length kilt worn at a woman's natural waist is probably just another expression of the same ratio.

Anne the Pleater

[ForresterModern]

I guess I was talking about those of us built more like a martini glass or a 55 gallon drum tilted at a 45 degree angle, than those built more typically like a bowling pin with an easily discernible natural waist. In my later years what used to be a fairly tight **** has only grown a wee bit while what was a flat belly above has grown a great deal by comparison (the tilted 55 gallon drum shape).

[Ryan Ross]

The fell is the part of the pleats that is stitched down.

Not being a kilt maker, I believe that the fell is comprised of part of the "drop", and all of the "rise"- the "drop" being that part of the kilt that is tapered from waist to hip (as well as the free-hanging part of the kilt, reaching to the selvage), and the "rise" being the part that is not tapered and is where the belt goes (usually only a couple inches), at the waist.

EDIT: Mr. Tremende beat me to the punch.

[ChattanCat]

Let's see. There is the waist, hips, drop (waist to bottom of the kilt dimension), rise (usually 2" of material above the waist), length (top to bottom dimension), and the fell... The fell is usually 1/3 rd of the lenth of the kilt. It is the length from the top of the kilt to the bottom of the sewn down pleats.

Hope this helps,