A question about kilt construction?

[The Kilted Reverend]

Rabble,

I am posing this to anyone who can answer my question, maybe more for a kilt maker...I dunno.

Anywho, I have heard it mentioned here several times and I am still in the dark so my question is in the construction of a kilt what exactly is the fell, where is it located, what does it do?

I have begun a money saving plan to be able to order a Premier Kilt in the Clark/Clergy tartan from Rocky. So any other things I need to ask for to get the best fitting kilt I can get would be greatly appreciated.

I know that Rocky will me make a great kilt (not that kind of great kilt.)

Slainte

TKR

[Rex_Tremende]

the fell is the stitched down part of the pleats that tapers in from the widest part of your bum to the waist.

[Ryan Ross]

The fell is the part of the pleats that is stitched down.

Not being a kilt maker, I believe that the fell is comprised of part of the "drop", and all of the "rise"- the "drop" being that part of the kilt that is tapered from waist to hip (as well as the free-hanging part of the kilt, reaching to the selvage), and the "rise" being the part that is not tapered and is where the belt goes (usually only a couple inches), at the waist.

EDIT: Mr. Tremende beat me to the punch.

[ChattanCat]

Let's see. There is the waist, hips, drop (waist to bottom of the kilt dimension), rise (usually 2" of material above the waist), length (top to bottom dimension), and the fell... The fell is usually 1/3 rd of the lenth of the kilt. It is the length from the top of the kilt to the bottom of the sewn down pleats.

Hope this helps,

[The Kilted Reverend]

Tkanks but now I have another ? after some research. I am wondering how a 13oz. medium weight wool will compare weight wise to a SWK standard. I done some checking and the clergy tartan does not come in 16 oz like I had wished.

I may have to go with the Campbell it comes in 16oz.

Slainte,
TKR

[RockyR]

For Western KY, IMHO, 13 oz is a great weight for 'year round' wear. If you get 16 oz, it will be nice and warm in the winter, but may be a little too warm in the summer.

[Pleater]

This very day the postman brought me some 13oz twill woven superfine worsted cloth in clerical grey, and so I could compare the heft with the 16oz tartan I have awaiting conversion to a kilt - and whilst the grey will make a very fine kilt I can see and feel why you would want to have the extra impact of a heavier cloth.

Following the usual phillosophy of the happy X Marks band o' brethren, it would be as well to buy both the options, rather than try to decide between the two.

For the sake of your sanity, however, perhaps it would be best to make a list of the places you forsee yourself wearing a kit and consider how suitable each one would be in that situation.

A 16oz kilt could weigh in the region of 4lb, depending on your height, the weight of the reinforcements and lining, and a 13oz kilt will be at least 3lb, if you are wearing an 8 yard version.

That is a lot of insulation to wrap around your middle, if you are in a climate with much heat in it.

Anne the Pleater

[ForresterModern]

the fell is the stitched down part of the pleats that tapers in from the widest part of your bum to the waist.

Rex,

Remember that it does not necessarily taper from bum to waist in some of us gutted wonders, or might even taper the reverse direction.

[RockyR]

Rex,

Remember that it does not necessarily taper from bum to waist in some of us gutted wonders, or might even taper the reverse direction.

A kilt should NEVER taper the reverse direction... if CAN be a 'tube' for guys with no hips and a big belly, but it should NOT taper in.

When we get an order with measurements for a kilt where the hips are smaller, we STILL give them a little outward taper... IE: if someone gives us measurements 40 X 38 X 24, we'll make the kilt 40 X 40 or 41 X 24.

[Pleater]

Remember that we exist in three dimensions - that is, there is still a shaping to be made to narrow the pleats from the hips to the waist - stand sideways in front of a long mirror and you should see that - or just use your hands if you are alone or with someone who will not start to look at you oddly if you start to feel how you round out below the waist at the back, or curve inwards at the front.

Even if the actual hip measurement is smaller than the waist the kilt is going to be hanging, not clinging to the body, so the actual measurement of the kilt at hip level - unless someone has a very peculiar body shape - is over half the total measurement for the hips at the back, plus over half the waist measurement at the front. What percentage more depends on an individual's shape and stance.

Anne the Pleater