Quote Originally Posted by BrianK View Post
Of course I'm thinking of aesthetics. Every time we choose an article of clothing we are making aesthetic choices. A large number of the threads in the Kilt Advice forum - the home of this thread - relate to aesthetics: "what looks best with..." "How does this look..." "would you wear x with y, or would z be better?"

If aesthetics were not important there'd be much less variety in highland dress than there is. Velvet doublets, diced or argyle hose, silver buttons, long hair sporrans and many other items that we take for granted might simply not exist.

Jock may think that pleating to the sett is traditional for civilian wear, and, if he does, I certainly respect the opinion of my generous benefactor, but what he said was that to his eyes pleating to the stripe "looks far too busy." That is a statement about aesthetics, not tradition.

Sandy said that he thinks pleating to the stripe looks unnatural and that, too, seems like an aesthetic choice on his part. Again, I respect his opinion, even if I don't take it as my own.

I happen to think that the apron of the kilt is where the tartan is shown to its best effect. it's a (relatively) flat and continuous surface that keeps all the elements - the stripes - of the sett in proper place and proportion. The slightest movement of the pleats or the slightest error in sewing and creasing the pleats can distort the pattern and ruin the beauty of the sett. When I design a tartan I fuss over it to make sure everything is the way I'd like it to be. Am I always happy with it? No, but the ones I am happy with should be used in a way that displays them the best and I'm not convinced pleating to the sett does that. Freelancer's image of a tattered curtain springs to mind.

As far as tradition is concerned, I agree that it is important to pay attention to tradition, but we also have to decide where it starts and ends, and we do not have to be slaves to it. According to our resident tartan scholar, pleating to the sett was still relatively new and noteworthy as recently as the early 20th century. That is quite recent in the history of clothing and if that is your standard it invalidates the traditions of the century or more prior to that in the era of modern Highland dress.

Again, this is simply my opinion and I think you ought to pleat your kilt in the manner which makes you most happy. If that is to the sett then I'll not stand in your way. In fact I'll encourage you in doing it that way if it make you enjoy your kilt all the more.

Regards,

Brian

Fair enough, Brian; though I said it was more than aesthetics, rather than a lack of aesthetics. I do not speak for Jock and Sandy, and can not bridge that gap.

I'm out.