Name those Stitches....

[truckie561]

I've done multiple searches on this forum ("what stitches, stitches, kilt stitches, etc.") for a list of stitches used when sewing a kilt and I've come up with nothing. Let me preface, by saying that my copy of 'The Art of Kiltmaking' should arrive any day and I was hoping to do a little preliminary research on learning how to sew the stitches utilized in making a kilt prior to the book arriving. It would be great if you guys and gals could rattle off the names of the most commonly used stitches in sewing a kilt, so I can school myself on how much I need to learn, considering my complete and total inexperience with any type of sewing. Right now, I couldn't sew a button on whatever you'd need to sew a button on..... Any help would be appreciated .

[WClarkB]

Most stitching is explained in the AKM but I have found that the illustrations are a bit obscure at times. I am hardly an expert as I am finishing only kilt #5 (for my twin brother, McLellan Ancient, knife-pleated to the sett). The trick for the most part is not the stitches which are usually fairly simple but rather the scale, symmetry and skill.
Think smaller. In the pleats (which is well illustrated) use small 1-2 mm stitches taking only 2 threads on the edge of the pleat while the needle is inserted from below. I have at times pressed the intended edge before sewing especially from the lower end of the fell to the waist.
Try to get each stitch the same size as the others, it evens the tension and makes it easier to keep the line straight.
Despite making a career of sewing material which is slippery, tough and frequently in tiny deep crevases (I am a doc), I find that stitching wool twill still requires some practice and with that become easier and more consistent.

Dont't be afraid to rip out the line of stitches you just did if it doesnt look right.

Best of wishes

W

[ChattanCat]

You will need to know the "blind stitch" for the pleats. Diagonal basting or Tailor's stitch for all the basting. And of course the straight line sewing stitch. The back stitch is used to lock down the material and also gives you a finer stitch than the sew stitch. The button hole stitch is used around the hole in the canvas. The catch stitch is used for the hems.

Good luck,

[Dixiecat]

The straight sewing stitch mentioned above is actually called a running stitch.

The blind stitch that is also mentioned is actually called a fell stitch. If you do a search on blind stitch you'll only find the blind hem stitching method which is a variation on the catch stitch used for hemming and not at all the stitch that ChattanCat is talking about.

Other than those two clarifications, you should have no trouble finding resources on the internet or youtube for instructions and diagrams.