Panache Answers the "Big Kilt Questions"

[Panache]

Apparently there was a member request that a post I made about white hose be made a sticky and I received a PM asking that I submit it as a thread in its own right. As this post was actually part of a guide I wrote for The Scots Forum http://www.thescotsforum.com/forum.php on 09/14/00 with the kind blessing of owners of The Scots Forum I share the guide in its entirety here. I have taken the liberty of making a few corrections or adding additional thoughts as I saw appropriate

Jamie



Though not a Scot by birth, only heritage, I found that I like the kilt very much and since February 2006 I have been a regular kilt wearer. I am a Scottish Country Dancer, I attend Highland Games and other Celtic heritage events, and have been part of a group that puts on a Burns Night Supper each January, and online have participated in a number of kilt and kilt related forums. In regards to the kilt I have read much, observed carefully, questioned politely, pondered over, invented, and in general learned as much as I could about this wonderful style of dress. Over the last few years I have acquired a number of them of all sorts, from hand sewn to machine sewn, modern to traditional, and I even have a large piece of tartan cloth for a belted plaid. From my closet I can assemble kilted outfits that range from casual to white tie level formality. .

Over the years I have seen certain debates come up over and over again. They always become heated arguments and never end with any sort of satisfactory conclusion. For the new kilt wearer (or potential kilt wearer) this isn’t the least bit helpful and does nothing but perpetuate these debates without ever answering the question. .

It may be an act of hubris but I decided to tackle these and answer them in a manner that would settle them once and for all. I'm sure there will be those that disagree with them and that is fine. Kilts exist in a special intersection of history, traditions, and fashion. It is my hope that these blunt (though hopefully humorously ) given opinions will prove a useful tool to many, and you all have my permission to use them if you think they will help end pointless argument in the future wherever you see fit.

So without further ado...

[Panache]

Question # 1 Concerning mass produced kilts…

Often people wonder if a mass produced, machine sewn imported synthetic material kilt as good as a quality custom made hand sewn wool one? The answer is simple…

…OF COURSE NOT! (Duh!)

However , mass produced machine sewn imported synthetic kilts can work quite nicely and can look just fine. It really depends on the individual garment. But you have to accept that mass produced is never going to be like bespoke (it never is). So people shouldn't think that the cheaper alternatives are just as good as the real deal. Though at the same time other folks shouldn't knock cheaper alternatives as they can have their own advantages.

View each kilt for what it is as each comes with its own set of pluses and minuses (for instance poly viscose material is washable, far more stain resistant than wool, lighter, as well as being less expensive as wool tartan). It is also worth noting that hand sewn does not necessarily mean that that the kilt will be good quality. There are many wonderful kilt makers out there and there likely to be some bad kilt makers out there as well. If one decides to invest in a bespoke garment then it is worth their while to also invest some time to insure that they chose a reputable kilt maker, get proper measurements for them to work with, and make sure that what they as the customer want/expect the final product to be is clearly communicated.

Blanket labeling all mass produced kilts as rubbish and all handmade ones as wonderful is ridiculous. A Honda is mass produced and a Ferrari is pretty much handmade and each comes with their own pluses and minuses…just like mass produced and hand sewn kilts.

[Panache]

Question # 2 Must/should one wear a sgian dubh with highland attire?

A: If you want to then yes you should. If it doesn't feel comfortable (either physically or mentally) don't bother. In reality...

NO ONE ELSE REALLY CARES!

So wear one, don’t wear one, wear a “real” sharp one or wear a fake one. Though if you do decide to wear one there is something you need to carry along with it. This would be some good plain old-fashioned COMMON SENSE ! Ask yourself :

“Is openly wearing a knife (or something that looks like a knife) appropriate/legal where I am headed?”

If you can answer this with a “YES" then by all means wear a sgian dubh if you like. If “NO” then leave it at home.

[Panache]

Question # 3 Concerning hats and kilts…

Out of all the kit a gent can sport no item is more personal than his hat. I have seen kilts worn with cowboy hats, native American head dress, pith helmets, flat caps, top hats, panamas, fedoras, fez hats, knit caps, berets, in addition to glengarries, tams, and balmorals. What looks right to me on my head might not be to someone else's taste. What looks right to them might not be to mine. Unless you are wearing some sort of uniform or adhering to some specific dress code wear the hat that suits you...and don't mess with a guy about his hat...EVER!

[Panache]

Question # 4 What about white hose and highland attire?

Let me set you all straight

Once upon a time no one wore white hose

Then a few decades ago, mainly because of use by pipe bands and promotion by kilt rental shops, white hose became a prevalent fashion which is still currently in vogue with highland attire.

So wearing white hose isn't wrong. (Let’s pause here a moment. Does everybody got that? WEARING WHITE HOSE ISN’T “WRONG”! OK? Good. Let's continue...)

However, I go to a lot of SCD dances, highland games, and Scottish events and see a huge number of guys in kilts with white hose. Sometimes their white hose look quite nice with these fellow's outfits and sometimes they look quite ghastly.

So please observe the following when thinking about purchasing and wearing white hose

DON'T

Buy them because that is what the guy in the catalogue is wearing
Buy them because that is what everyone else seems to be wearing at the highland games/ Burns Night Suppers/ etc.
Buy them because you can't decide what color hose looks good with your tartan
Buy them because they are the cheapest / best deal
Buy thin acrylic ones
Ignore other options like diced or argyll hose because of the cost (they really can make an outfit!)

DO

Buy them if you actually think that white goes well with the tartan / outfit
Buy good quality ones of thick wool (hand knit out of natural wool is your very best option)
Ignore anyone who dislikes white hose on general principle
Wear them with confidence because YOU think they look great

[Panache]

Question # 5 Regimental or not?

You are (presumably) a grown up adult person and you should be comfortable enough in your own skin to wear or not wear underwear without having to ask other grown up adult people. If what you wear or don't wear under your kilt preoccupies you too much then maybe kilt wearing isn't for you.

One thing though. You do have a responsibility to not flash people so remember to use your COM MON SENSE ! Even if you prefer to forgo undergarments most of the time, when engaged in activities that might expose you (being on a ladder or trampoline, dancing, marching in the wind, dealing with children, etc) please be courteous to others that may not wish to view your assets or shortcomings and put on a pair of black boxers or briefs!

[Panache]

Question # 6 Which tartan should one wear?

One should wear the tartan that you like and/or the one that has meaning for you.

That's it!

The one caveat being that one should respect the restrictions on certain tartans (like the Balmoral tartan) and try to be conscientious of those tartans that are copyrighted and not seek to thwart fees/requirements that should be addressed. If you think about it a tartan pattern is just a few lines of color, tartan fabric a bit of cloth. We as human beings can assign meaning to them. Those colors can mean a family, a profesion, a place, an event, a Faith, a company, etc...so please remember to be respectful of the feelings others may have about their tartan. Liking a tartan for simply how it looks is absolutely just fine! It doesn’t hurt however to know what the name of a tartan you are wearing is and what it might represent (you will also sound a whole lot smarter when someone asks you "Hey what is that tartan?" and you have a good answer.

[Panache]

Question # 7 Should one’s leather accessories all have to match colors?

No, just make sure they match in levels of formality.

[Panache]

Question #8 Should one take offense at "are you a piper?” or "nice skirt" comments?

First off take in mind that kilts are not an altogether common fashion and people have a tendency to try to put what they see as a costume into some sort of a context. (i.e. “hmmm… the kilted guy must be a piper or something in a wedding”.) The word “kilt” can sometimes slip someone’s mind (or it may not be part of their vocabulary) and the reference to a “skirt” may not be malicious at all (and in truth let‘s face it, the kilt is a type of SKIRT!)

As for the lame insults thrown out by the uneducated and/or ignorant all I can say is that if you are going to be bothered by little stuff like that then don't bother wearing the kilt. A few good responses can be memorized to be used as needed. Sticks and stones folks, sticks and stones...

[Panache]

Question #9 Are modern kilts like Utilikilts really kilts?

The word "kilt" is a Celtic word that has come to represent any masculine skirt. A Utilikilt is not a traditional Scottish Kilt. Nor is the garment the ancient Egyptians wore, nor is the Greek fusinella, nor the skirt the men of the Hopi tribe of native Americans wear for certain special dances. Yet they are kilts. Language is constantly being taken from one culture for use by others. There is something so powerful and masculine in the image of the kilted highlander that this garment's name has come to represent all masculine skirts.

If you are a staunch traditionalist (and Bully for you if you are!) then these things may not be a "kilt" to you, but please show respect to your fellow man and understand that these are worn as masculine attire. When people wear a modern kilt they almost always use the word “kilt” to describe their garment. There is enough unpleasantness in the world without you adding to it. Before you think about using the term “SKIRT” to deride modern kilts and those who wear them please take a moment and think about some of the nasty slang words that have been thrown at various peoples over the years. Does your own pride/identity/opinion require you to insult someone else or their masculinity? Just please take it that the widespread use of this word honors the iconic traditional Scottish Kilt. Plus it just makes for a nicer world!