Kilt Question for the 'Rabble'

[creagdhubh]

Greetings,

I have compiled my own definitive list of the remaining kilts (Forever! This is it, no more!) in which I plan to order in the future, with the kilt woven in the Macpherson Reproduction Colours, by D.C. Dalgliesh, being at the very top of the queue. I have commissioned our forum's own, Barb Tewksbury, to make my first 'new' kilt, and I am quite confident I shall call upon her kilt-making skills for the other kilts I would like to have made, thereafter.

I should preface by saying that all of the kilts will be made of heavy-weight, pure new wool, ranging from 15-16 ounces in weight, but no heavier. One of the kilts, due to the nature of the tartan and its mill, will be made in 13 ounce, medium-weight, pure new wool (I could approach D.C. Dalgliesh to see if they could weave a similiar tartan in their heavy-weight fabric, foregoing the lighter weight wool, of a mere 13 ounces!). All of the kilts will also have the following specifications - no question: no rear belt loops, pleated to the line (Colour choice TBD, yet in my experience, pleating the Macpherson red-based setts to the double white line is always a good choice. And the Macpherson dress tartan would look rather smart if pleated to the double red line), double-fringe, and fully lined.

It may be obvious from the preceding details, that one part is missing...the leather straps and buckles. This is where my question shall be posed; based upon each tartan, what colour should I have the leather kilt straps be, brown or black? It is obvious to me, that the reproduction/weathered colours would look superb with brown leather kilt straps and brass buckles - I wouldn't do a brown strap with a silver buckle either - brass only, and silver for the black straps. Also, how many straps and buckles should I have? The standard three, or the more unusually seen, two? Presently, the kilts I currently own all have three black leather kilt straps with three silver buckles.

Here are the tartan setts of the Highland clan to which myself and my family belong. The list also includes the Clan Chattan Confederation, to which the Clan Macpherson has long been associated with, since at least 1609, when The Clan Chattan Confederation Band of Union was signed by the chiefs and/or chieftains of many Highland clans and tribes of Inverness-shire and Badenoch:

Macpherson Reproduction Colours - D.C. Dalgliesh - K1 Heavy-Weight


Macpherson Standard Colours - D.C. Dalgliesh - K1 Heavy-Weight


Macpherson Dress Standard Colours - D.C. Dalgliesh - K1 Heavy-Weight


Macpherson Weathered - Lochcarron - Strome


Macpherson Muted - House of Edgar - Medium-Weight Old & Rare Range (Could have D.C. Dalgliesh weave into their K1 heavy-weight cloth?)


Chattan Ancient - Lochcarron - Strome


Chattan Standard Colours - D.C. Dalgliesh - K1 Heavy-Weight


Chattan Reproduction Colours - D.C. Dalgliesh - K1 Heavy-Weight
(Tartan doesn't exist yet - special weave must be commissioned. I am in the process of altering D.C. Dalgliesh's standard colours version of the Chattan sett, to their reproduction colours, utilizing Scotweb's Tartan Designer - tartan image forthcoming)

I realise that this isn't that serious of a question, but in a sense, it is to me. I love the little details that make up a truly bespoke garment. So, what would the 'rabble' recommend based upon my tartan line-up?

Warmest regards,

[NewEnglander]

Cousin-
I don't have any experience with leathers other than black for my kilts, but I was wondering if you could direct me to some background information about "reproduction" colors. Also, my one wool kilt is in our muted/weathered tartan and it is truly beautiful. I'm anxious to see pictures of these kilts to come!
Creag Dubh!
-Eric-

[Cygnus]

My preferences:

MacPherson Standard: Black
MacPherson Dress: Black
MacPherson Weathered: Brown
MacPherson Muted: Brown
Chattan Ancient: Black (I prefer black, but think brown would look just fine)
Chattan Modern: Black
Chattan Reproduction: Brown

I do wish Chattan Clan Modern was more widely stocked as I much prefer it to the ancient shades (and it doesn't appear that Dalgliesh normally stocks it). Maybe someday I'll have some woven up.

[piperdbh]

Two black straps with silver buckles on all of them. They each have a black stripe (or two), and it seems to me that black straps and black stripes just go together.

[davidg]

Weathered and muted colours would indeed look superb with brown leather straps especially if they are primarily used for day wear and have brown leather accessories

Remember though that if you wear a belt or a vest you will not actually see them

[Paul Henry]

For my kilts I use different colours of hide, most recently red , but I've used green, tan, brown, black , and a favourite is natural - which ages to a lovely golden brown in time.
I use brass or two types of silver buckles, dependant on the the client , or whatever I
feel goes well with the kilt.
Yes of course they are not always seen, but it is little things like this attention to detail that I enjoy when making a kilt, and making it special for the client.

[creagdhubh]

Thank you to all who have answered thus far.

Eric,

Reproduction colours are basically what other mills refer to as 'weathered' colours. D.C. Dalgliesh refers to their 'weathered' tartan range as 'reproduction tartans' and state on their website the following:

"Our exclusive Reproduction Tartans are authentic in colour and design to those worn in 1745 and before.

They are woven in pure 100% new wool, using traditional weaving methods. The colourings of these Tartans offer a soft muted effect reminiscent of the days when vegetable sources such as lichen, moss and alder bark provided the dyer with his raw materials."

David,

I do not wear a belt with my kilt, but for the most part, I do wear a five-button waistcoat for day attire (sometimes the jacket alone), and typically a three-button waistcoat for evening attire. I remove my jacket or doublet whilst dancing, and that is really the only time. However, in the summer months, when it is incredibly hot and humid in my 'neck of the woods,' I sometimes will wear only a collared shirt, without a neck-tie and unbuttoned once from the collar, with the kilt. Wearing Highland day attire in this manner, would definitely 'show off' the kilt straps and buckles, though I am not hugely concerned about 'showing off' my kilt straps and buckles, it's more of my neurotic attention to detail kicking in! Haha!

Cheers,

[creagdhubh]

Paul,

Wow! The red strap looks rather striking, I must say. I agree with your point that these little aspects of the kilt may not always be seen by others, but I am definitely a 'sucker' for details, and enjoy the process of making my kilts 'my own,' yet staying within the traditional sensibility of Highland attire, in which I thoroughly prefer.

Cheers,

[English Bloke]

Kyle. My considered opinion, for what it's worth.

Macpherson Reproduction - Brown
MacPherson Standard (Modern?) - Black
MacPherson Dress - Black, (definitely).
MacPherson Weathered - Brown
MacPherson Muted - Black
Chattan Ancient - Brown
Chattan Standard - Black
Chattan Reproduction - Brown (mibbies)

Here's a thought. I have two kilts with two buckles not three, and I reckon it better prevents the front apron from being pulled out of shape. Consequently when I do up my third buckle on other kilts now, it is always fastened very loosely. In addition, If you were to opt for two buckle kilts then the colour of straps would be academic as left and right buckles would be covered by either your kilt belt or waistcoat (assuming you are always so dressed). The only opportunity you'd have to appreciate the difference is when you're not wearing them, which may or may not defeat the object.

I admire your style greatly Mr Macpherson. You certainly do know how to stick to your guns. Unlike me own self...

By the way, Macpherson Kilt photo thread?... Not to worry, I'm a patient man.

EDIT: That answers the kilt belt question then. Too slow in composing. Sorry.

[creagdhubh]

My preferences:

MacPherson Standard: Black
MacPherson Dress: Black
MacPherson Weathered: Brown
MacPherson Muted: Brown
Chattan Ancient: Black (I prefer black, but think brown would look just fine)
Chattan Modern: Black
Chattan Reproduction: Brown

I do wish Chattan Clan Modern was more widely stocked as I much prefer it to the ancient shades (and it doesn't appear that Dalgliesh normally stocks it). Maybe someday I'll have some woven up.

Thanks Cygnus. You are correct, Dalgliesh does not normally stock the Clan Chattan tartan in their standard (modern) colours, you must request them to weave it for you. They have obviously woven this particular sett in the past, and it is a lovely variant of the Chattan sett, indeed.

I like the ancient colours woven by Lochcarron too - not many chaps like the predominant colour of 'orange' that is typically seen in many of the red-based, 'ancient' coloured tartans, but I do.

Cheers,