XMarks vest on the bias

[sydnie7]

Here are some WIP photos of Bob's new vest. I hope to have it done for next weekend's formal dinner with our sports car club, but if that doesn't happen it will surely see the light of. . . night?. . . at our clan dinner dance in early March.

My plans, in an earlier thread, went somewhat awry when I realized I hadn't allowed for the shorter version of vest required for kilting So, within the available real estate, here is the bias cut layout I ended up with.



These pieces have a seam allowance all around, when that's taken up I believe the two white stripes at the "points" of hem will align with two vertical white stripes on front apron. We'll see.

This pattern has a collar (not true lapels, just a flat collar) so I laid each front piece onto my remaining yardage to match up the collar pattern pieces.



That's the selvedge you see at lower left, then the cut-out right front of the vest laid over it and the collar pattern piece aligned with the vest front. I then carefully lifted the pattern piece at each end, folded the vest front out of the way, and pinned the pattern piece directly to the yardage.

Here's the resulting collar piece atop the vest front.

[sydnie7]

On to the pocket welts. I cut the pattern piece out of muslin first, so it would be easier to fold and mark. Here is the muslin folded and pinned into position on vest front.



That allowed me to mark some major alignment lines, and here's the result -- laid atop a scrap of fabric that is just big enough (now you know where the phrase "cutting corners" comes from)!



Lather, rinse, repeat for the other side and here you have all the tartan pattern pieces in their final alignment. Center front is folded to show approximate finished edge. Now that I look at it, I folded it "ladies way" but rest assured, the finished vest will lap for a right-handed man LOL



Cut to perfection, now the challenge is to sew it to perfection -- stay tuned! But first I have to do the boring stuff, cutting lining, interfacing and the like. I won't bother to document that (and we're off to see Dave Alvin in concert tonight, whoooo hooooo!) so don't look for an update any too soon.

[Standard]

Dear lord lass you are talented! Can't wait to see the finished product.

[Aspiringloser]

I am digging this for sure! Can't wait to see more.

[Tartan Tess]

Oh thank You for posting this with pictures.

[tulloch]

Snazzy!!

[Elf]

Looks like you're well on your way. Terrific work matching the pieces.

[Mickey]

Looking very nice! Might have to try that myself if I have enough material left over.

[bonnie heather]

It's looking really good. You're doing a beautiful job!!

[sydnie7]

I characterized lining and interfacing as "the boring stuff," but here's a tidbit. "Real tailors" stop reading now, please

This being PV fabric, I'm following the pattern recommendation for fusible interfacing on the front and collar pieces. Pulled three different featherweights from my stash and did a test fuse. Note that I put the black sample over a white fabric section and v.v., to also check for any adverse effect on colors when viewed from the front.



No real surprise, the expensive woven stuff is nicest by far in terms of finished, fused feel -- adds a little body without any stiffness. I've got all the lining and interfacing cut and plan to start sewing this evening!

Oh, also decided that before trying to align tartan on self-covered buttons, I'll make one up covered with lining material and see what I think. Should look like a dark blue silk button. As I keep saying, "we'll see."