Bias waistcoat question

[sydnie7]

I'm planning an XMarks tartan waistcoat, cut on the bias, for evening wear with Bob's formal-jacket-conversion (shown here with the straight hem, black wool vest that I originally made to go with it):



I think I want the bias-cut version to have a shaped bottom, more like the one Matt is wearing in this picture:

I realize that Matt is wearing a doublet vs. Bob's jacket which has a lower lapel line. But I really like how the higher, 4-button line of Matt's vest shows off the bias-cut tartan. Do you think I can get away with the higher lapel line of Matt's vest under the lower lapel line of Bob's jacket, worn with same tux shirt/studs and bow tie?

BTW am planning to put self-covered buttons on the XMarks tartan vest.

[creagdhubh]

In short, yes.

[MacLowlife]

Did you line them up that way on purpose, five, four and three buttons? The beauty of a custom garment is that you can do things that suit an individual wearer that a manufacturer is not going to be able to do because of limited demand. A four button, semi-high vest is confusing enough that retailers would have trouble selling it, but I think it is perfect, assuming you believe it flatters Bob and his physique. And it shows off just a little more of the tartan fabric. Be sure to post a pic.

[bigdad1]

In short, yes.

That's a rarity on this forum.

[madmacs]

This is a high neck with my argyll jacket, looks ok to me....

[sydnie7]

Thanks for the feedback (and the extra photo). It is amusing that Matt's photo has the 5-4-3 line-up!

Now to decide what element I want front-and-center in relation to the kilt. Note that Matt's vest has a different center element than his kilt, where madmac's lines up from stem to stern so to speak. I have enough XMTS tartan to play around and see what looks good to me. If I get organized enough I'll post some photos of the possibilities.

[JSFMACLJR]

Note that Matt's vest has a different center element than his kilt, where madmac's lines up from stem to stern so to speak. .

I don't quite follow you here. It looks to me that Matt's waistcoat and centre line of the kilt are only slightly askew, due to normal "wear and tear", or am I missing something?

[madmacs]

I don't quite follow you here. It looks to me that Matt's waistcoat and centre line of the kilt are only slightly askew, due to normal "wear and tear", or am I missing something?

Matt's center stripe is green... The bias has both the green and purple...

My center stripe has the same colours as the the waistcoat...

It may be a function of the sett size/colours though...

[artificer]

Matt's center stripe is green... The bias has both the green and purple...

My center stripe has the same colours as the the waistcoat...

It may be a function of the sett size/colours though...

It IS a function of the sett/fabric cutter's decision. The green "square" would appear right below Matt's jabot if the waistcoat were cut high enough.

Your set has one full repeat showing, with the second incomplete (but it would form right below the chin). Matt's sett is much larger.

ith:

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Matt's center stripe is green... The bias has both the green and purple...

My center stripe has the same colours as the the waistcoat...

It may be a function of the sett size/colours though...

I think it is simply a function of the fact that the tartan in the waistcoat is on the bias, and therefore there is no "center line" to match up with the center line of my kilt. However, if you look, the white line flanked by the red stripes (which is not the center line of the kilt, but the opposite pivot line to what I centered the apron to), does rather line up with those lines on the waistcoat. It's a bit askew just from the way I am standing in the photo.

However, that was purely accidental!