X-Kilt question- What is confusing me?

[Ringo]

Ok... So, I made two X-Kilts a year and a half ago which both came out fine, one denim, the other black twill. Both got lost when I moved six months ago (probably in my storage unit, we only moved accross town but into a much smaller place)...

HOWEVER: I DID find my extra denim and extra black twill, AND I have also put on a lot of weight so decided to re-measure myself and go to work making two new X-Kilts.

Although the first two came out fine, I had a question on measurements as part of the pleating diagram in the appendix never did make sense, and I've re-read the X-Kilt manual three times now and still not getting it.

How do you determine the width of the under apron?

At first I thought it was just the over apron width plus six inches. I think that is what I did on my first denim kilt. The black twill I think I just guessed on what felt right.

Can someone explain how this was worked out?

ALSO:
I'm confused at the width of the under apron pleat. I just stuck with the 12inches that are used in sample pleating diagram on both of my previous kilts and it worked fine. So, is twelve inches always going to be the under apron pleat? Or should that normally be different for different sized guys?

If it helps:
My waist measurement is 48
My Rump is 45
My fell is 8
My drop is 23

I'm using an 18 inch over apron, which gives me 9 pleats.

If anyone can offer insight I would greatly appreciate the help.

Thanks in advance,
Ringo

[sydnie7]

At your size, a 12-inch reverse (under apron) pleat is fine. Might go smaller if the kilt were significantly smaller overall.

With an 18-inch apron and 48 waist, I'd probably make the under apron wider. I've responded in more detail to your other thread.

Have fun making your new kilts! Have you dealt with the larger waist/smaller rump issue before? That's a common question around here. . . basically you should make your kilt rump larger. More detail available in other threads or ask away.

[Ringo]

Thanks for both of your replies to my questions. I did not mean to double post, the more detailed question came first, then when it didn't show up in the forum right away I assumed my computer ate it rather than sent it. I didn't feel like typing all the details a second time so shortened my questions.... Maybe a moderator can close my other thread?

Your answers are a big help. My first two X-Kilts I weighed a little less, but I still had a bigger rump // smaller waist ratio (I want to say about 44 inch rump // 46 inch waist but can't recall, and my notes from those are not in my work area anymore). I found no issue with the fit. I can't explain well what I did, but I made it work... it didn't feel as perfect as my wool kilt, but it did fit a million times better than my off the rack acrylic one.

Cheers,
Ringo

[sydnie7]

Typical method for dealing with bigger rump/smaller waist: imagine you're wearing p@nts and measure from "side seam to side seam" around the front of your waist and around the back of your rump. Add those two numbers together for your finished kilt rump measure. That way, the front apron will hang straight down from waist instead of trying to "pull in" at the rump. If you made the rump to your actual, smaller measure, the front apron would tend to "pull in" at the hips.

Glad to be of help and keep us posted on your progress!

[Bearded Man Brew]

The think I like about making my own kilts is that I can tweak and change things like the apron size. What I do now is leave more than I need for the aprons and then cut and hem to fit after my pleating is finished. You can make sure that everything fits and hangs correctly and you dont have too short of an apron and show the world what you brought to the party.

[Alan H]

The think I like about making my own kilts is that I can tweak and change things like the apron size. What I do now is leave more than I need for the aprons and then cut and hem to fit after my pleating is finished. You can make sure that everything fits and hangs correctly and you dont have too short of an apron and show the world what you brought to the party.

THIS..... exactly.