Ok... So, I made two X-Kilts a year and a half ago which both came out fine, one denim, the other black twill. Both got lost when I moved six months ago (probably in my storage unit, we only moved accross town but into a much smaller place)...

HOWEVER: I DID find my extra denim and extra black twill, AND I have also put on a lot of weight so decided to re-measure myself and go to work making two new X-Kilts.

Although the first two came out fine, I had a question on measurements as part of the pleating diagram in the appendix never did make sense, and I've re-read the X-Kilt manual three times now and still not getting it.

How do you determine the width of the under apron?

At first I thought it was just the over apron width plus six inches. I think that is what I did on my first denim kilt. The black twill I think I just guessed on what felt right.

Can someone explain how this was worked out?

ALSO:
I'm confused at the width of the under apron pleat. I just stuck with the 12inches that are used in sample pleating diagram on both of my previous kilts and it worked fine. So, is twelve inches always going to be the under apron pleat? Or should that normally be different for different sized guys?

If it helps:
My waist measurement is 48
My Rump is 45
My fell is 8
My drop is 23

I'm using an 18 inch over apron, which gives me 9 pleats.

If anyone can offer insight I would greatly appreciate the help.

Thanks in advance,
Ringo