As has been pointed out by Father Bill, the pleating styles can vary. Both of the two kilts that I referenced are 16 oz wool material from the same weaver. The two differences between them are the yardage (one is 5 yards of material and the other is 8 yards), and the pleating style. The 5 yard kilt, while still a heavy wool material is lighter and feels so noticably, and the box pleats can have a cooling effect similar to a bellows, in that air is moved through expansion and contraction of the pleats as you walk or move. Subtle, but still noticable.