Wearing the kilt...

[Monkey@Arms]

SNIP

the little kilt is an evolution of the great kilt. the great kilt was sleeping bag (and warm it is too!), coat and game bag. it was an incredibly practical item and wearing it was the most practical way to carry it around. it evolved into the little kilt because the highlanders found themselves "in town" and the great kilt was no longer practical. the little kilt was a way of hanging on to the culture but a scotsman was practical above all.

SNIP

anyway, enough of the soapbox. hope to see more of ye around. i enjoyed meeting folks from this board at the livermore games and hope to meet more of ye.

It was great meeting you in Livermore. Your post raises an interesting question, the answer to which I guess is lost in antiquity. If, as I have read, the great kilt developed relatively late in Scottish history, what was it that triggered the inhabitants of the Highlands to change their style of dress from the leine and brat to the kilt?

If it was an improvement, why wasn't it adopted in other areas with similar conditions? (Just to keep the discussion focused, I'm discussing the great kilt in particular, not pleated unbifurcated garments in general.)

Best regards,

Jake

[M. A. C. Newsome]

If, as I have read, the great kilt developed relatively late in Scottish history, what was it that triggered the inhabitants of the Highlands to change their style of dress from the leine and brat to the kilt?

Of course we don't know for certain, because they are no longer around to ask after 400+ years, but we do have our theories.

The feilidh-mhor ("great kilt") evolved from the brat or plaid. It originated as simply a long wrap (feilidh in Gaelic) that was gathered and belted at the waist, rather than just draped over the shoulder. This adaptation occurred towards the very end of the sixteenth century.

I have encountered at least two different theories as to why, and both are beleivable, and I think both are probably true.

The first factor is that the cost of wool dropped considerably in the late sixteenth century. There apparantly was a glut on the market at the time, and this made it less expensive, so the average person could afford to purchase more woolen cloth. Keep in mind the fashion at the time was for excess cloth in clothing. Look at some late sixteenth century depictions of the leinte, and you will see very long sleeves, pleated skirts, and basically a lot of cloth. Apply the same fashion of excess cloth to the brat or mantle, and you easily end up with a length that requires belting on to keep it all together.

The second factor was that apparantly around this time Europe entered into a "mini-Ice Age" resulting in temperature drops in places such as.... Scotland! Add colder weather to the above mentioned lower-cost wool and affection for excess fabric, and the feilidh-mhor is born!

[RossCroft]

Of course we don't know for certain, because they are no longer around to ask after 400+ years, but we do have our theories.

The feilidh-mhor ("great kilt") evolved from the brat or plaid. It originated as simply a long wrap (feilidh in Gaelic) that was gathered and belted at the waist, rather than just draped over the shoulder. This adaptation occurred towards the very end of the sixteenth century.

I have encountered at least two different theories as to why, and both are beleivable, and I think both are probably true.

The first factor is that the cost of wool dropped considerably in the late sixteenth century. There apparantly was a glut on the market at the time, and this made it less expensive, so the average person could afford to purchase more woolen cloth. Keep in mind the fashion at the time was for excess cloth in clothing. Look at some late sixteenth century depictions of the leinte, and you will see very long sleeves, pleated skirts, and basically a lot of cloth. Apply the same fashion of excess cloth to the brat or mantle, and you easily end up with a length that requires belting on to keep it all together.

The second factor was that apparantly around this time Europe entered into a "mini-Ice Age" resulting in temperature drops in places such as.... Scotland! Add colder weather to the above mentioned lower-cost wool and affection for excess fabric, and the feilidh-mhor is born!

wow. research results. i'm impressed.

related thoughts...
i think the use of lots of material was more in use by nobility and rich folks, and i suspect the poor had to make do with what they could get so long as it met their needs. when they could they used lots of cloth, but huge billowing anything got in the way of those who had to actually work. as a wearer of the great kilt i can tell you that less than six yards would limit it usefulness. most of the folks i see wearing one use a belt to control the billowing folds. i leave them blowing to have their use as pockets for bulky items that won't fit in a sporran. less than six yards would leave me without those useful pouches.

as far as the leine, i tend to stay away from them. i lean toward the jacobite style shirt as a more practical piece of attire. and even then, i use a lace on cuff to keep the sleeves out of leather dyes. my wife wears a leine at games and ties the sleeves back to cook. it makes it practical for her, but i would ruin one quickly.

all of which is just my opinion, which will buy me a cup of coffee so long as i add the appropriate amount of money to pay for it.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

most of the folks i see wearing one use a belt to control the billowing folds. i leave them blowing to have their use as pockets for bulky items that won't fit in a sporran. less than six yards would leave me without those useful pouches.

Oh, I don't know about that. Mine is just over 4 yards and I am able to arrange it to give me pouches a'plenty!

I've seen speculation that the feilidh-mhor could be anywhere from 3 to 6 yards in length (and certainly there was no "standard" length -- people likely used what they had). However, since all the earliest tailored kilts we know of contained around 4 yards, and these were the direct development out of the feilidh-beag, which was just the lower half of the feilidh-mhor, I have to assume 4 yards was the average length for those, as well.

M

[RossCroft]

Oh, I don't know about that. Mine is just over 4 yards and I am able to arrange it to give me pouches a'plenty!

I've seen speculation that the feilidh-mhor could be anywhere from 3 to 6 yards in length (and certainly there was no "standard" length -- people likely used what they had). However, since all the earliest tailored kilts we know of contained around 4 yards, and these were the direct development out of the feilidh-beag, which was just the lower half of the feilidh-mhor, I have to assume 4 yards was the average length for those, as well.

M

you're probably right, six yards is just my preference for the great kilt. then again, i have more money to spend than the average highlander did 400+ years ago. (don't we all!) there's probably always going to be disagreement on what was actually used and when, but i appreciate your postings. they're obviously based on research and as one who tries to be historically accurate i think that is important. when we're at games our guild tries to educate people on highland life and ways and accuracy is critical. thanks.

[way2fractious]

RossCroft, it was good to meet you at the Livermore Games last weekend. I see from the above exchanges that you now have met Matt, at least online here at XMarks.

As for me wearing the great kilt, I have only experimented with donning one at home (except for one Halloween Beer Night. Dearie me!) Making and wearing the tailored "little kilt" suits me better; otherwise, I'd have to start all over collecting the pieces of an appropriate outfit.

w2f

[Skweres]

Of course we don't know for certain, because they are no longer around to ask after 400+ years

what about duncan macleod!? cant wait for that movie!