XKILT Question - Determining Under Apron/Pleat Width?

[Alan H]

No under apron pleats!?!



Buttons! Press studs!! Kilt liner!!! Underwear!!!!!

Er - re write with under apron pleats?

By this I mean that there's no pleating in the under-apron.

The over-apron has a deep reverse pleat underneath iy-, which then segues into a deep-ish pleat for pleat #1, over on the left side..OK, OK, my bad! this is called the "under-apron pleat"!

The under-apron begins at the last pleat on the right, and continues in one un-pleated length, as far across the body as the maker wants to do it. It lies beneath the over-apron, of course, when the wearer has it on. This is just like all the traditional kilts I've seen.

If someone just really wanted to add 10 inches to their under-apron and throw in a huge box-pleat that would "flop down" for modesty when sitting, I see no reason not to!

[fluter]

By this I mean that there's no pleating in the under-apron.

I just figured that out! Which answered one of my questions about the allocation for the under-apron. I think Tartan Hiker wrote that he puts any extra fabric into an under- under-apron pleat.

This is just like all the traditional kilts I've seen.

If someone just really wanted to add 10 inches to their under-apron and throw in a huge box-pleat that would "flop down" for modesty when sitting, I see no reason not to!

I don't have anything like a tank, but in a trad knife-pleat isn't a "reverse pleat" often put on the right-hand side of the under-apron? I may have the terms confused... deep pleat, reverse pleat. In effect this makes a reverse box-pleat with the last knife pleat, right?

My USAK semi-trad, SWK standard and heavyweight all have that reverse pleat. The Sport Kilt, SWK economy and thrifty do not. One thing I like about the SK is a very, very deep under-apron pleat. I suspect I'll be trying to maximize both of these under-pleats, at least to half the apron size as pleater suggests.

[Pleater]

All my kilts are in the reverse Kinguisse style, and are exactly mirror imaged each side.

I put the same amount of fabric into the two aprons and their under apron pleats, and have an apron width which means that as I sit down, or lift a knee to step up, the apron slides down to hang vertically as the under apron pleat opens up.

I looked through all the information I could find about kilt making on the 'net before starting out on the first one, and it seemed logical that you would want the large pleats at the edge of both the aprons to make it 'safe' to move in.

I would advise having an under pleat on both sides, as the under apron might hold up the apron, even though that has an under pleat.