XKilt Pleat Taper for the big guys

[Robinhood]

I always measure the hip and waist in halves. The back
half of the waist and the back half of the hips go together
to make for proper taper in the fell. The front half usually
ends up being just the waist measurement straight down
from the waist since the front half of the hip measurement
is smaller (fat gut) but I don't want a reverse taper
on the front apron.

[Barb T]

I always measure the hip and waist in halves. The back
half of the waist and the back half of the hips go together
to make for proper taper in the fell. The front half usually
ends up being just the waist measurement straight down
from the waist since the front half of the hip measurement
is smaller (fat gut) but I don't want a reverse taper
on the front apron.

So, how does this work if the hips are smaller than the waist?? If the apron is straight (same at hips and waist), how do you wind up with a taper in the fell?

[Pleater]

My take on this problem is that the garment is laid out into pleats to go around the body as it stands, not bending to follow the outline.

Usually there is a curving of the body so the circumference of the hips is not the same shape as the circumference of the waist, and they are not centred in the same vertical line either, there is fresh air under the front of the waist and over the back of the hips.

The kilt will fall straight from the waist at the front, no problem, but there should be enough pleating to encompass the curve of the rump and some room for a shirt, ease of movement plus sitting distortion.

The pleats are shaped to narrow them into the waist at the centre back.

If it helps, imagine placing ten or twelve vertical rods, from waist height to the floor, around the body. Moving them in as close as possible they will touch the widest point on the body, waist, thigh or buttock, and the kilt will fall vertically from that point of contact. Above that point the kilt should be shaped to conform to the body and hold the lower part correctly - that is not tilted from the vertical.

I suspect that my take on garment shaping is due to reading a book on the French designer Madelaine Vionnet when I was still quite young, so gaining an understanding of woven materials and fitting even before I started making clothes for myself.

[Barb T]

I understand perfectly what you're saying. My posts above were made simply to point out that, in order to accomplish taper in the pleats for someone with a waist bigger than the hips is to add extra inches to the _apron_ at the hips in order not to have a reverse taper in the apron. You can't just do the measurements by halves as suggested above.

Barb