How do I taper for identical hip and waist measurements?

[ardchoille]

When making a kilt for someone who has identical waist and hip measurements, how do you taper and still keep within the measurements?

Example:
Waist: 38
Hips: 38
Length: 22

If I taper this kilt, will that not throw off either the hip or waist measurement?

[KiltedSkeleton]

Gee, sounds like your making a kilt for me. Minus six inches.

[sydnie7]

The measurements may be the same, but people are seldom truly straight up and down. Look for some belly protruding to the front and some rump protruding to the rear -- if you have Barb's book, go back to the part about splitting waist and hip measurements between apron side and pleat side. You may want to put more of the waist measure into the apron side. Then, even if your hip measure is split 50/50, you will have a taper between bottom of fell and waist.

Hope this makes sense!

[Bugbear]

I've been wondering how a kiltmaker would do that, for when I have a kilt made, but was a little afraid to ask... My bottom measurement is almost the same as my top, between thirty-six and seven, but I'm not completely cilendrical.


* I'll keep checking in on this thread...

[ardchoille]

The measurements may be the same, but people are seldom truly straight up and down. Look for some belly protruding to the front and some rump protruding to the rear -- if you have Barb's book, go back to the part about splitting waist and hip measurements between apron side and pleat side. You may want to put more of the waist measure into the apron side. Then, even if your hip measure is split 50/50, you will have a taper between bottom of fell and waist.

Hope this makes sense!

That makes sense. I'm planning to buy Barb's book this month, I'm too anxious I guess. Thanks for explaining it.

[Barb T]

You may want to put more of the waist measure into the apron side. Then, even if your hip measure is split 50/50, you will have a taper between bottom of fell and waist.

Won't work. If you tapered the pleats, you'd wind up with the apron measurement at the waist being bigger than the apron measurement at the hips, which would give the apron a reverse taper. Which you don't want.

The only thing you can do here is make a cylindrical kilt.

[The Wizard of BC]

ardchoille,

Are you making a Traditional Style Kilt or a Contemporary Style Kilt?

[ardchoille]

Won't work. If you tapered the pleats, you'd wind up with the apron measurement at the waist being bigger than the apron measurement at the hips, which would give the apron a reverse taper. Which you don't want.

The only thing you can do here is make a cylindrical kilt.

That will work fine. These are my measurements and I was having trouble with the taper. Thanks Barb

ardchoille,

Are you making a Traditional Style Kilt or a Contemporary Style Kilt?

I'm making one of each for now.

[The Wizard of BC]

I have found that when working with the stiffer fabrics used in Modern Kilts that making the kilt a cylinder does not always work.

For your Traditional Kilt follow Barb's instructions and make the Kilt a Cylinder.

For your Modern Kilt take the waist measurement as usual. When taking the hip measurement though, pull the tape measure out from the front of the hips and simulate that the apron is falling straight down from the belly.
This will give you a larger measurement for the hips and allow you to put some taper into the back of the kilt.
This method is only used on the stiff fabrics of modern kilt because they do not form and mold to the body as well as Wool.

[ardchoille]

I have found that when working with the stiffer fabrics used in Modern Kilts that making the kilt a cylinder does not always work.

For your Traditional Kilt follow Barb's instructions and make the Kilt a Cylinder.

For your Modern Kilt take the waist measurement as usual. When taking the hip measurement though, pull the tape measure out from the front of the hips and simulate that the apron is falling straight down from the belly.
This will give you a larger measurement for the hips and allow you to put some taper into the back of the kilt.
This method is only used on the stiff fabrics of modern kilt because they do not form and mold to the body as well as Wool.

Ah, thanks for the tip, Steve