Tradition of Non-Cookie-Cutter Kilt Jackets?

[Bugbear]

Well, the kilt jackets are tailored in an interesting way, as well as, the regular suits over there. A lot of ours arn't fitted at all; I think it's called bag style. They change the styles a lot, too. It does get maddening after a while.

[Jock Scot]

Well, the kilt jackets are tailored in an interesting way, as well as, the regular suits over there. A lot of ours arn't fitted at all; I think it's called bag style.

Plenty of those over here Ted. It is a shame that more people don't take a wee bit of time choosing their clothes, as we say, "off the peg", as there really are some well tailored clothing that costs the same as some downright awful stuff. Even if you are not built to tailor's dummy specifications it is often perfectly possible to venture out and not look like a clown! Apologies to any clowns reading this, by the way.Sometimes, if needs must, the bespoke route is the only option though. Unless you are lucky enough to know some one who is a master with a needle, thread and scissors!

[KFCarter]

Unless you are lucky enough to know some one who is a master with a needle, thread and scissors!

I am lucky in that way. One of my staff at the theatre graduated from our local art college with a degree in fashion design and she's absolutely brilliant with a needle... and her dad's family is from the Isle of Skye, by the way.

She's very interested in my kilts and has offered to help alter or make jackets for me, but she asks a lot of questions about style and I am struggling a bit to sort out the answers. She's very creative, but wants to keep rooted in tradition as do I. Frankly that desire is central to my interest in wearing kilts. But I'm trying to find a balance between tradition (it is Highland attire, after all), practicality (cost and comfort) with a dash of creativity (with respect).

These discussions, as well as all the post of pics both contemporary and vintage, are helpful... but I still feel I'm a bit "in the weeds." I'll shut up now and keep reading.

[Jock Scot]

I am lucky in that way. One of my staff at the theatre graduated from our local art college with a degree in fashion design and she's absolutely brilliant with a needle... and her dad's family is from the Isle of Skye, by the way.

She's very interested in my kilts and has offered to help alter or make jackets for me, but she asks a lot of questions about style and I am struggling a bit to sort out the answers. She's very creative, but wants to keep rooted in tradition as do I. Frankly that desire is central to my interest in wearing kilts. But I'm trying to find a balance between tradition (it is Highland attire, after all), practicality (cost and comfort) with a dash of creativity (with respect).

These discussions, as well as all the post of pics both contemporary and vintage, are helpful... but I still feel I'm a bit "in the weeds." I'll shut up now and keep reading.

You are well on the right lines ,if I may say so. One of the few things that I learnt in the army, that I still use today is; "time spent in reconnaissance is seldom wasted" and that is precisely what you are doing.Look at ALL the pictures try to spot the traditional,try to spot the no no's(be honest!Even if you like the look!) that way you can be traditional with the added bit of personal flair. Then ask and ask again if you are not quite sure.One last thing! Don't get too wound up with all this matching up nonsense, it really is not traditional and in trying to match things too closely stifles the traditional look. Good luck.

[KFCarter]

One last thing! Don't get too wound up with all this matching up nonsense, it really is not traditional and in trying to match things too closely stifles the traditional look. Good luck.

That is especially helpful!

And yes, growing up in a household commanded by an Infantry officer, I was schooled early and often on the value of careful and thorough observation.

[Bugbear]

Plenty of those over here Ted. It is a shame that more people don't take a wee bit of time choosing their clothes, as we say, "off the peg", as there really are some well tailored clothing that costs the same as some downright awful stuff. Even if you are not built to tailor's dummy specifications it is often perfectly possible to venture out and not look like a clown! Apologies to any clowns reading this, by the way.Sometimes, if needs must, the bespoke route is the only option though. Unless you are lucky enough to know some one who is a master with a needle, thread and scissors!

I buy most of my suits from Good Will and second hand stores, then have them adjusted a little here and there if they need it. If it's not too much alteration, I can do a little, but not at all what a good tailor could do. I have found some very good suits at the Good Will stores for extremely low prices.

[GlassMan]

Well, the kilt jackets are tailored in an interesting way, as well as, the regular suits over there. A lot of ours arn't fitted at all; I think it's called bag style. They change the styles a lot, too. It does get maddening after a while.

Ahhh, the both famous and infamous Bag Style of suit coat here in the United States. Many people do not realize that this suit coat style was first introduced by Brooks Brothers. Both English and Continental style tradition suit coats have a slight taper to the middle that creates a very nice sillouette, however it doesn't suit the American middle.

Even in the early 20th century, the average American business man tended to carry a bit of extra baggage around the belly (as opposed to the Average American who worked hard for their wages and seldom if ever even owned a suit coat much less a substantial waistline). The Bag Coat (also known as a Sack Coat) was the antidote to this.

Through clever tricks of tailoring, Brooks Brothers created a coat that had the ability of making both large and small men look average! The sides descended straight down to hide bulging spare tires, while seams on the back still bent inward to give the false impression that the man still had a smaller waist than shoulders. In addition, the coat sported a single very deep vent in the back. Many continental coats have no vent, while many English coats have double vents. Large American behinds made the ventless design uncomfortable and splayed out the shallow double vent to the point where it actually accentuated the size of the behind by pulling apart and creating a triangle of trousers and shirts darting in between. A single extremely deep vent both allowed for expansion but since the vent was so deep no amount of spread could create a situation in which the vent sides truly pulled apart and exposed the clothing beneath.

Portly men took to this and, as the business class belly began to expand into even the working classes the sack coat became the dominant coat style in the United States. In fact, all extra-large suit coats descend from this basic design.

We may feel bad about our weight in the early 21st century, but it was a problem already apparent in the sedentary businessmen of the first half of the 20th century as well.

[macwilkin]

Ahhh, the both famous and infamous Bag Style of suit coat here in the United States. Many people do not realize that this suit coat style was first introduced by Brooks Brothers. Both English and Continental style tradition suit coats have a slight taper to the middle that creates a very nice sillouette, however it doesn't suit the American middle.

Even in the early 20th century, the average American business man tended to carry a bit of extra baggage around the belly (as opposed to the Average American who worked hard for their wages and seldom if ever even owned a suit coat much less a substantial waistline). The Bag Coat (also known as a Sack Coat) was the antidote to this.

Through clever tricks of tailoring, Brooks Brothers created a coat that had the ability of making both large and small men look average! The sides descended straight down to hide bulging spare tires, while seams on the back still bent inward to give the false impression that the man still had a smaller waist than shoulders. In addition, the coat sported a single very deep vent in the back. Many continental coats have no vent, while many English coats have double vents. Large American behinds made the ventless design uncomfortable and splayed out the shallow double vent to the point where it actually accentuated the size of the behind by pulling apart and creating a triangle of trousers and shirts darting in between. A single extremely deep vent both allowed for expansion but since the vent was so deep no amount of spread could create a situation in which the vent sides truly pulled apart and exposed the clothing beneath.

Portly men took to this and, as the business class belly began to expand into even the working classes the sack coat became the dominant coat style in the United States. In fact, all extra-large suit coats descend from this basic design.

We may feel bad about our weight in the early 21st century, but it was a problem already apparent in the sedentary businessmen of the first half of the 20th century as well.

To add to Glassman's post, the sack suit/coat came out of the American Civil War, and was the civilian equivalent of the US Army "sack coat" or fatigue blouse. The blouse was originally intended for fatigue duty (with a frock coat serving as a dress uniform), but became somewhat universal in the Federal forces.

With so many uniforms needed for soldiers in the field, the army turned to standard sizes (I, II, III & IV), which was later picked up by civilian tailors for "off the rack" clothing.

Regards,

Todd