Tapering the fell

[kd0afk]

I have searched the forum for this subject and I can't find anything. I am to the point where I am ready to taper the fell and I can't seem to visualize the process of tapering each box pleat. Can someone help me on this? Is there a video tutorial on the subject?
Thanks

[sydnie7]

Don't know of any visual on the topic but here goes with words.

From the hem upward to fell, you have 3-inch-wide pleats. From fell to waistband, you want to decrease that 3 inches to some lesser width (based on your waist measurement).

You should have chalk lines marking that 3-inch width. Below the fell, each pleat is folded along that chalk mark. Above the fell, fold the pleat so that the chalk mark is hidden inside the pleat -- by 1/2 the amount that you need to decrease. For example, if you are tapering/decreasing a pleat by 1/2 inch, the chalk mark on each side of pleat should be 1/4 inch inside the fold. Pleat width at waist is now 2.5 inches (3 minus 1/4 on left and 1/4 on right). Make sure folded edge of one pleat continue to butt up against the folded edge of the next pleat all the way from fell to waistband.

Hope this helps!

[kd0afk]

So I don't just overlap the pleats? I am still a little hazy on this. I am going to try what I think you said and see if it works.

[fluter]

So I don't just overlap the pleats? I am still a little hazy on this. I am going to try what I think you said and see if it works.

They will overlap on the inside...



On the "right side" we want a straight, more or less neat topstitched seam

[Paul Henry]

just a point of clarification, make sure you know the difference between BOX pleats and KNIFE pleats
Box pleats wouldn't be overlapped, but Knife ones would!

[kd0afk]

Fluter, thanks a million. That is exactly what I was picturing based on Sydnie7's post. Just to make it crystal clear, If I want to take off a half inch on a box pleat I would make a mark 1/4" in from both sides at the waistband (this becomes my new pleat line from the fell up, crease and iron on the new line and overlap the excess on the inside and butt the new creases together just like they were before.
I have started to make 2 other Util's before this one and I do believe that I like the box pleat better.
I will post photos of the finished product when I am done.
Thanks guys.

[Alan H]

Just to make it crystal clear, If I want to take off a half inch on a box pleat I would make a mark 1/4" in from both sides at the waistband (this becomes my new pleat line from the fell up, crease and iron on the new line and overlap the excess on the inside and butt the new creases together just like they were before.
.

Yessir. That's exactly what you do.

[MMorgan]

Thats exactly how I did it .... made sure my pleat was 3 inches across and looked straight... then measured each side and made my new lines and folded overlapped/pinned/sewed down

[The Wizard of BC]

Here it is graphically.

[sydnie7]

Words from a writer and schematics from an engineer, fortunately we all agree about the process! Ask a question on XMarks and you'll get answers to suit every learning style