A stitch across the bottom of the fell?

**vorpallemur** · 16th July 09, 11:39 AM

Originally Posted by The Wizard of BC

Vorpallemur,

Can you please explain a #103 stitch. I know what a Blind Hem Stitch is but that is not applicable to this situation.

103 is the type of stitch, as specified in ISO 4915. (100 series stitches are single needle, single thread chain stitches. 200 series is hand stitches (both real, and simulated). 300 are lock stitches. 400, 500 and 600 are various stitches made by Merrow-type machines.) I did mean a blind hem stitch; that's what Barb's book calls for, though it's done by hand.

**The Wizard of BC** · 16th July 09, 12:53 PM

Thank you for that explanation.

I have read through the ISO specifications and perhaps I do not have the entire document but the stitch listed as #103 requires a Merrow brand machine to accomplish. I have never seen one of these machines nor the stitch you mention.
I have two ladies in my shop who have been in the garment industry for may years. One as a very high level designer who dealt with manufacturers on an almost daily basis and she had not heard of these stitches or machines either.

The #103 may or may not be the same stitch as the blind hem stitch in "The Art of Kiltmaking" but I can't tell from the diagram.

The problem is that I am not a professional garment maker from the ISO world. I'm just a guy who makes Kilts using old Pfaff 138-6/21 machines the best he can.

**sydnie7** · 16th July 09, 01:21 PM

Re the machine blind-stitch question: I just can't visualize how you would apply that stitch to this situation. Each pleat would have to be folded back and sewn individually from the inside (just as you do by hand, except there you can at least carry the thread across!). By machine, I doubt you could carry the threads across without ending up with either too tight or too loose of loops around each pleat fold. I could be wrong, but it just doesn't seem like the right hammer for this particular nail.

But the ISO stuff was interesting!

**The Wizard of BC** · 16th July 09, 01:50 PM

I agree with Synie7 on this one.

I machine sew my Kilts. Even my Tartans. If I were to hand-stitch them using an authentic Steeking Stitch as described in "The Art of Kiltmaking" would make sense.

If I were to hand-stitch even this one line of stitching the cost of my Kilts would have to be raised to about that of a Traditional Kilt.

Machine Stitching is the only way I can keep my prices within range and still make a profit to keep the shop open.

So, I'm afraid if you want a Freedom Kilt you will have to like my stitching. Otherwise you will have to look at a Kilt that omits the Steeking.

I know that many machine made Kilts omit the Steeking but I have found that this one little line of stitches makes all the difference in the overall look and hang of the Pleats.
I will never produce a Kilt without the Steeking.