Traditional Solid Color Kilts and Definitions

[Stratherrick]

Bugbear/Ted

Hmmm, lots to think over there, good post!

As for a kilt not being a kilt unless you're wearing a sporran, I disagree with that sentiment. Sure, lots of bits 'n' bobs set off a kilt, including the pin but, to my mind anyway, it's still a kilt on its own.

Slainte

Bruce

[Bugbear]

Bugbear/Ted

Hmmm, lots to think over there, good post!

As for a kilt not being a kilt unless you're wearing a sporran, I disagree with that sentiment. Sure, lots of bits 'n' bobs set off a kilt, including the pin but, to my mind anyway, it's still a kilt on its own.

Slainte

Bruce

That's not for me to decide.

But I have been confused by the many points of view on this subject, so I'm trying to sort through it all or at least get the discussion going.

[The Wizard of BC]

In a hope of clarifying this somewhat I try to look at the garment not from the styling side but from the construction side.

Please note; By using the term "Traditional Style Kilt" I am referring to the Kilts made from between the mid 1950's to the present.
I am also referring only to 8 yard knife pleated Kilts of that era. If you see Matt Newsome's remarks below, the Historically correct Kilts may have used differing types of construction techniques and fabrics.

There is one thing from the construction side that has always and will probably continue to define a Traditional Kilt. It is the Stabilizers and interfacings that are built into the Kilt and hidden behind the liner.

When you open up a Traditional Kilt and look inside the first thing that you see is a liner. It starts up at the waistband and goes down to the bottom of the Fell. It also stretches from the outer edge of one apron all the way over to the outer edge of the other apron. Many people think the liner is there to keep your Kilt clean. But if that were so then the liner would be removable and washable.
So, what does the liner do? It covers the cut-away pleats and the Stabilizer and Interfacing that is built into the Kilt to take the stress of strapping the Kilt on and wearing it. These Interfacings take up all the stress and insure they are not transferred to the stitching of the pleats.

Now I know, some have said that hand stitching is stronger than machine stitching but I'm afraid that that is simply not true. What is true is that a Traditional Kilt will last a very long time if properly cared for. That is because the interfacings take all the stresses insuring that the pleats stitching is never over stressed to the point of failing.

If you remove the Interfacings and Stabilizer what you have now is a Casual Style Kilt. A Casual Kilt may look from the outside exactly like a Traditional Kilt. The same Tartan pattern, the same aprons, the same everything. But due to the lack of interfacings all the stress of wearing the Kilt are taken up by the pleat stitching. This is why many Kilts you see will have a failure of the Pleat stitching in the Fell area. And why many Casual Kilts use machine stitching.

What defines a Contemporary Kilt is also in the construction.
A Contemporary Kilt has all the same Stabilizers and Interfacings that a Traditional Kilt does. All we do is move them up into a regular trouser like waistband. The stresses of wearing the Kilt are taken up by the interfacings in the waistband and never transferred to the pleat stitching.
Why we do this has to do with the addition of the Pockets. The Pockets are not the reason it is defined as a Contemporary Kilt they are only the reason we had to move the interfacing from the Fell area up into a trouser like waistband.

So, if it is hand-stitched, made from 100% Scottish Wool of 16oz per fabric yard weight, in a registered Tartan, has a full width apron with taper and fringe, is worn at Full Rise with a sporran and Kilt Pin, and has the exact same amount of fabric, number of Pleats and amount of Pleat Reveal......but the Interfacings and Stabilizer are hidden in the waistband instead of hidden behind the liner, then it is a Contemporary Kilt and not a Traditional. Even thought to 99% of the world it looks and swishes exactly like a Traditional.