Fringe-edge vs selvedge

[The Wizard of BC]

Here is a photo of the three types of Selvedge currently used on Kilt fabric.



The top fabric single width fabric woven by D.C. Dalgleish on a shuttle Loom.
This is the traditional Kilt Selvedge.
The Weft yarns are continuous and the edge of the fabric just sort of magically ends.

The lower right fabric is double width fabric woven by Fraser & Kirkbright using a rapier Loom.
This is what is known as a Tucked Selvedge.
The Weft yarns are brought to the edge of the warp and then tucked back and cut off. You can see and feel the tuck as a slightly thicker edge.

The lower right fabric is Polyester/Rayon woven by Marton Mills.
This is the Fringed Selvedge.
The Weft yarns are taken beyond the warp and tucked and then the extra is cut off leaving the small fringe.

Here are two photos I took at Marton Mills during my recent visit.

The first shows the loom that produces the tucked Selvedge.
Note the little hook near the center of the photo. This lifts the last few warp yarns allowing the weft yarns to be tucked back forming the Selvedge.



This next photo shows the loom that produces the fringed Selvedge.
You can see the narron extra tucked portion and how it is cut off.



Whether the fabric you get from Marton Mills has a tucked or fringed Slevedge depends on which loom is next to be set up when your fabric is scheduled to be woven. It's a 50 50 chance unless you very specifically order one or the other.

[Morris at Heathfield]

Whether the fabric you get from Marton Mills has a tucked or fringed Slevedge depends on which loom is next to be set up when your fabric is scheduled to be woven. It's a 50 50 chance unless you very specifically order one or the other.

Does Marton Mills use both looms for both wool and PV? If so, do you have any pictures of PV with a tucked selvedge?

[The Wizard of BC]

The only weaving mill I know of producing a fringed Selvedge is Marton Mills. And then only on their Polyester/Rayon Blend known as P/V.

[Zardoz]

Keep in mind though that just because you are getting a PV kilt, that does not mean it has to have a fringed edge. Marton Mills can produce the PV with a kilt (tucked) selvedge. My American Heritage, Irelands National and Caledonia from USAK all have a kilt selvedge. I personally do not care for the fringe, so I aways call and ask whats on hand in the tartan I want.

[The Wizard of BC]

Just because you asked for it.


Here is a side-by-side comparison of the Marton Mills P/V fabric with both the tucked and fringed Selvedges.




And as others have said if you specify which Selvedge you want as a special order you can get it.
Otherwise it is a 50-50 chance depending on which loom is next up to be loaded.

[Morris at Heathfield]

Ah, thank you. I was previously under the impression that Marton Mills PV only came with a fringed selvedge. Seeing them both together, I think I prefer the tucked-selvedge PV.