First time kilt making

[Dutch piper]

Hi everybody,

Here I am again, with the next question.
I just finished stitching the canvas to the pleats. Before the stitching, the pleats were very nice looking. They ran straight down from the top of the kilt to the bottom of the fell.
Since I've atached the canvas, the pleast wave from left to right.
What have I done wrong?
I obviously have to remove the canvas and try again, but how can I avoid making the same mistake?

_____________________
Dutch Piper

[The Wizard of BC]

I think, from the sound of the result, that you made the same mistake in thinking that I did early on about what the canvas is actually for.

The mistake in thinking is that you solidly anchor the canvas and pleats together. that somehow the strength comes from the combination of the two. This is incorrect.
And this will create puckers like what you describe.

The concept is to loosely baste the canvas to the inside of the kilt. This sort of keeps things from bunching up. but the canvas and the pleats should both move independently from each other. The canvas just supports the pleats.

When you wear the kilt you are actually wearing the canvas. The pleats float loosely over the canvas with no stress on the stitching.

When stitching the canvas think basting. the stitches should be big, loose and go just through the inside of the pleats not all the way to the outside.

[ChattanCat]

Rocky certainly has the concept of why have a canvas lining. He has pointed out that if you have pulled the stitches tight, it will shorten the hips and maybe even the waist. I usually work on a flat surface or in the lap with my hand under the pleats to keep the pleats flat while attaching the canvas.

I am not sure why the pleats have skewed, so I am going to make a wild guess. The canvas needs to be relieved from the waist to the bottom of the fell because the waist is usiually smaller than the hips. If you are stitching and folding, is it possible that you have pulled the fold a little too tight on the bottom of the fell? This might explain the skewing.

Another thought is that you have caught the stiches on the outer layer of the pleats and it is puckering the pleats. This doesn't seem to be your issue though as you should be able to see the puckers when you can make the pleats bulge out between each pleat. These puckers are quite noticable and need to be fixed if you find them.

Hope this helps,

[jhockin]

I think, from the sound of the result, that you made the same mistake in thinking that I did early on about what the canvas is actually for.

The mistake in thinking is that you solidly anchor the canvas and pleats together. that somehow the strength comes from the combination of the two. This is incorrect.
And this will create puckers like what you describe.

The concept is to loosely baste the canvas to the inside of the kilt. This sort of keeps things from bunching up. but the canvas and the pleats should both move independently from each other. The canvas just supports the pleats.

When you wear the kilt you are actually wearing the canvas. The pleats float loosely over the canvas with no stress on the stitching.

When stitching the canvas think basting. the stitches should be big, loose and go just through the inside of the pleats not all the way to the outside.

OK folks,
I have a further question here, regarding the canvas & stiching it across the pleats:
(1) Barbs book says to baste & then run four rows of tailor stitching across the canvas. It helps to be told that the stitches should be loose, but are the tailor stitches suppose to avoid being done through the darts, of the canvas?
(2)I also got the impression, from Barbs directions, that the tailor stitches are suppose to go through as much of the material, of the pleats, as possible, without going through the right-sdie of the kilt - correct?or not?

(3) and, is any of the basting ( both running stitches & tailor stitches) suppose to be removed, before stitching down the lining?

[Barb T]

The apron and underapron pieces are basted first (but only where the pieces cross single thickness tartan). That basting is eventually removed.

The tailor stitching done on the apron and underapron pieces, plus the tailor stitching in the pleats section, is left in and should be stitched through everything but the very outside fabric of the kilt (and the canvas in the pleats is not basted first). You don't want the stitches to show, but the canvas needs to be anchored to the kilt. The stitches should be snug (not tight or puckery) and should definitely be done in the canvas folds.

Main thing is to have the kilt over your knee while you're doing this so that its nice and extended at the bottom of the fell. You don't want to lay it on a table, or (if the pleats have any taper), it's likely that the kilt will be puckered at the bottom of the fell.

[Paul Henry]

this is how I do the horsehair, I use a lots more stitches, but it'e the same idea, I suppose I'm more used to jacket work!!

[jhockin]

OK, thanks Barb! ( and paul , too) - I was just to the point of pressing the kilt - now I'll go redo the tailor stitching, as I DID do it on the table!

[SteveB]

Paulhenry, nice example, and nice tartan BTW.

Slainte

[Barb T]

Actually, using tailor stitching instead of long lines of straight stitching lets the pleats float a bit more above the canvas. Using long rows of straight stitches runs the risk of shaping the back of the kilt in a way that you wouldn't want.

When I go home tonight, I'll grab a kilt in progress and scan the back so that you can see what the difference is.

[Paul Henry]

Actually, using tailor stitching instead of long lines of straight stitching lets the pleats float a bit more above the canvas. Using long rows of straight stitches runs the risk of shaping the back of the kilt in a way that you wouldn't want.

When I go home tonight, I'll grab a kilt in progress and scan the back so that you can see what the difference is.

Just in case you thought those were long rows of straight stitches,,,, they are not, just very carefully worked horizontal zig zags... they hold the back of the kilt in a very proper way.