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31st January 10, 10:14 PM
#1
What is "fusable interfacing" and who uses it to make kilts?
I've run into this terminology around here lately; and, I'd like to understand it better.
Thanks for your input!
The spirit of the Declaration of Arbroath (6 April 1320) abides today, defiantly resisting any tyranny that would disarm, disperse and despoil proud people of just morals, determined to keep the means of protecting their families and way of life close at hand.
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31st January 10, 11:01 PM
#2
Interfacings are using in making garments to give the fabric body, to strengthen weak fabrics and/or to give reinforcement to parts that need support such as buttonholes.
Interfacings are used under the main fabric, usually applied to a facing, but can be applied directly to the main fabric.
Interfacings can be made of any fabric, but usually (these days anyway) are made from a non-woven fabric. Bespoke tailoring will most likely use sew-in interfacing rather than fusibles.
Fusible interfacings have a heat sensitive resin on the wrong side so that you can apply the interfacing to the garment fabric using an iron.
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31st January 10, 11:06 PM
#3
It's a lazy man's interfacing. Less stitching, doesn't last as long or work as well.
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31st January 10, 11:12 PM
#4
oh, man! Finally a question I can answer, and Dixiecat beat me to it. That's it, I'm never logging out of Xmarks...
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1st February 10, 12:10 AM
#5
It's a lazy man's interfacing. Less stitching, doesn't last as long or work as well.
Not true. Works great when used properly and for the right projects. There are certain projects I wouldn't use it for, but for 90% of garment sewing and craft projects, it's better than sew-in interfacing.
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1st February 10, 12:11 AM
#6
Okay, so it doesn't work as well for me. I am also by no means a tailor.
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1st February 10, 12:12 AM
#7
I also have trouble setting the coffee maker.
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1st February 10, 12:47 AM
#8
Okay, so it doesn't work as well for me. I am also by no means a tailor
Neither am I.
Here's my 'rules' for interfacing:
1) match the weight of the interfacing to the weight of the fabric. Generally, the heavier the fabric the heavier the interfacing
2) match the weight of the interfacing to the 'presentation' that you wish to achieve. -you may wish to have crisp collars and cuffs so use a stiffer weight than what you put in the button band of the shirt
3) test several weights of interfacing with your fabric to see which is best
4) pre-shrink your interfacing before using -place the interfacing in a basin of hot water (hand hot, not boiling hot) and let cool, gently squeeze out the water and hang over the shower rod to drip dry
5) never 'iron' on the interfacing, always 'press'. This means use an up/down motion with the iron, never sideways or back/forth.
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1st February 10, 01:59 AM
#9
fusible interfacing can be useful , but you will find very few professional tailors making quality garments who use it much or often.It does have a place of course, and it can be useful, but you will find that a hand stitched interfacing allows greater shaping, or adding different layers and weights, and actually it's often easier to hand stitch smaller pieces than using the iron on stuff.
Realistically it is a shortcut, and whilst the "heat glue" has imporved over the years , it can delaminate over time or washing.
If I am spending a relatively large amount of money on fabric, I'm going to making the garment in the best way possible, and that still remains using non fusible interlining
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1st February 10, 06:00 AM
#10
Realistically it is a shortcut, and whilst the "heat glue" has imporved over the years , it can delaminate over time or washing
This can happen, yes, but doesn't matter a hoot. Consider that sew-in interfacing is just a layer of cloth. The only difference between it and a fusible is the heat sensitive resin. As long as the fusible was applied correctly, and finished properly (no exposed edges), I have experienced no issues on having a fusible delaminate.
What I have had issues with, is the non-woven 'fabric' that some interfacings are made from. With heavy wear and repeated washings, it can sometimes fall apart or 'whisker' itself to nothingness. I always try to go with woven fusibles over non-woven.
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