What is "fusable interfacing" and who uses it to make kilts?

[Richland]

I'v seen it called by the brand name "Stitch Witchery"
I have female friends who use it to change the length of slacks and trousers depending on the heel height of their shoes.
It works better on Light fabrics than Heavy kilt fabrics.
I carry a foot or two in my travel kit along with safety pins, and needle, and thread, for emergency clothes repair.

[Paul Henry]

regardless of Dixiecat's points (because in time the fusible does leave a dimpled surface after time and sewn in doesn't), but in answer to the original question, very few would use any form of fusible interfacing in a quality kilt, and very few quality tailors would use it in quality garments eiher

[vorpallemur]

regardless of Dixiecat's points (because in time the fusible does leave a dimpled surface after time and sewn in doesn't), but in answer to the original question, very few would use any form of fusible interfacing in a quality kilt, and very few quality tailors would use it in quality garments eiher

Nonsense. Fusible interfacing of high quality, properly applied, will not come off before the cloth it's attached to falls apart. I've got shirts that have been through the laundry a couple hundred times with no evidence of fusing failing. No dimpling, no wrinkling, no separation until the thread falls apart.

hand-made garments tend not to have it, but that's little to do with actual properties of the stuff, and more to do with tradition. (And I've seen Saville Row suits with fully fused fronts, so don't think it doesn't happen.) There are places where a floating structure -- chest fronts, lapels, collars - - is much nicer. There are places where fusible is better (shirt collars and cuffs that are supposed to be crisp). And there are places where fusibles make things possible, like allowing pockets in places that wouldn't otherwise have the internal structure for it.

I wouldn't use fusible in a tank. but in modern kilts, I use it for pocket cut outs, pocket welts, and in waistbands.

[Paul Henry]

Perahps it's my training and tailoring experience, but I wouldn't use the fusible, perhaps I'm just being very traditional in my sewing training and experience.
I don't doubt that it is used and people can have good examples of it's quality.
I'm sure some of my clothes have it in it, I chose not to use it if I'm making bespoke clothes, and that includes kilts

[vorpallemur]

Interfacings are using in making garments to give the fabric body, to strengthen weak fabrics and/or to give reinforcement to parts that need support such as buttonholes.
Interfacings are used under the main fabric, usually applied to a facing, but can be applied directly to the main fabric.
Interfacings can be made of any fabric, but usually (these days anyway) are made from a non-woven fabric. Bespoke tailoring will most likely use sew-in interfacing rather than fusibles.
Fusible interfacings have a heat sensitive resin on the wrong side so that you can apply the interfacing to the garment fabric using an iron.

There are three sorts of interfacing construction. There are non-wovens, which are mostly needle-punch felted. these tend to be stable in all directions, which means no stretch. there are some all-bias (stretch equally in all directions) variants around. There are woven interfacings, which are usually stable warp (length) wise and weft (width) wise, but strech on the bias. There are knit (usually, but not exclusively tricot) interfacings. They've got various stretch properties, usually they're stable one way and strech the other. They're usually more flexible, so they drape better. There are weft and warp insertion interfacings, which are knit, but then have a weft or warp thread inserted into them. Less stretch, and less flex.

[sydnie7]

I'v seen it called by the brand name "Stitch Witchery"
I have female friends who use it to change the length of slacks and trousers depending on the heel height of their shoes.
It works better on Light fabrics than Heavy kilt fabrics.
I carry a foot or two in my travel kit along with safety pins, and needle, and thread, for emergency clothes repair.

Stitch Witchery, Steam-a-Seam, and similar variations are not the same as the fusible interfacing of the original question. They are just a layer of "glue" that is activated by the heat of iron to stick two layers of fabric together.

These products are all about the fusing, and result in little if any interfacing or stiffening effect. This is by design -- you wouldn't want a stiff hem, generally speaking. They are very useful (see Barb T's tutorial on making flashes, for example) but they are not interfacing.

[Dixiecat]

"Stitch Witchery"

This is not an interfacing. Stitch Witchery is what's called fusible web and used as you described.

regardless of Dixiecat's points (because in time the fusible does leave a dimpled surface after time and sewn in doesn't)

I can only assume that you've used low-quality fusibles and/or applied them incorrectly and/or used the wrong fusible for a project. I have made quite a few garments using these products and have had no problem with them when used properly. I'm totally serious.

And yes, the answer really is, don't use fusibles in kiltmaking!! The best product is the hair canvas.

[Paul Henry]

I haven't used them, that is point, it's from examples of standard or commercial clothes that are old and well used that show the wrinkling or dimpling.
My clients want the best and I don't think that the fusibles are good enough, for other people perhaps they are.

Perhaps we can agree that they do have their uses, just not in good kiltmaking

[Dixiecat]

I haven't used them, that is point, it's from examples of standard or commercial clothes that are old and well used that show the wrinkling or dimpling

And you base your opinion of fusible interfacings on old used clothing and not on personal opinion of using the product? I wouldn't call that experience something on which you could base an opinion of fusible interfacings. My observations and opinions are based on years of using the product and working in the home sewing industry. And no one has ever complained that my garments are of low quality.

[Paul Henry]

I've never said your garment are of low quality, I have no experience of them to make any such judgement.

My observations are based on many years working with clothes in a professional capacity, as both a tailor and cutter.
My tutors showed many examples of all sorts of interfacings and linings fusible or plain, woven or not, and what would be expected after years of use.
They were always of the firm opinon that bespoke clothes deserved the best , both in fabric which could be seen and that which couldn't be.

You've had good experience of using fusible products, that's great, but it's not everyones experience.