If it isn't between 4 - 9 yards long, pleated at the rear with an apron left over right at the front then it isn't really a kilt IMHO. Not too bothered about the material as far as casual kilts are concerned but those skirts with the narrow apron, no!
Did the OP mention 'flat caps'? Potentially a damn fine head dress. Can't stand the silly one with deep backs that look like the wearer has jammed them onto the back of his head but that's a matter of style (or the lack there off) but unfortunately they are not suitable for wear with a kilt and anyone attempting to pervert the course of kilt wearing in that way should be shot, after they have been flogged.
I didn't really get the OPs point about box pleats, they are a conventional pleat, maybe not as popular now as they once were but there is nothing un-trad about them.
Herumph!
The 'Eathen in his idleness bows down to wood and stone,
'E don't obey no orders unless they is his own,
He keeps his side arms awful,
And he leaves them all about,
Until up comes the Regiment and kicks the 'Eathen out.
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