Tartan doublet DIY notes and details.

[longhuntr74]

Ok...I have questions!!! I'm close to getting started on my doublet project...I'm going to be making something open fronted and collarless like these. My questions are:

Did you use any shoulder pads in your jacket construction? Sleeve cap?
What type of interfacing/interlining did you use? Any hair canvas?

At risk of sidelining this thread, I'd ask anyone else with tailoring knowledge to provide inputs on these questions also...either here...or via PM. Thanks. No issues with your posts on my thread Gabe...we're all friends here...discussion is welcome!

[fluter]

Did you use any shoulder pads in your jacket construction? Sleeve cap?
What type of interfacing/interlining did you use? Any hair canvas?

I have not done so, but I'd say "yes" to all.

Here's a very accessible book that describes 3 levels of construction (fusible interfacing, machine sewing, hand sewing). Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket

[Hothir Ethelnor]

Did you use any shoulder pads in your jacket construction? Sleeve cap?
What type of interfacing/interlining did you use? Any hair canvas?

I did not use shoulder pads. The pattern didn't allow for them and I was unsure if they were historical so I didn't bother.

I used lightweight fusible interfacing on every pattern piece to keep them from stretching out of shape. I also used heavy kiltmaking hair canvas on the front pieces.

[longhuntr74]

Good thoughts on fuseable...I'm certain I'll be using a combination for the vest and coat I will be making as well. I know that 18th century jackets did not have shoulder pads...which is why I asked. Curious about modern tux and dinner jackets...I'm thinking that formal jackets may not use them today either. I see them as more of a sportcoat/suitcoat type of thing...perhaps some very thin ones of felt might be appropriate. I'm pretty broad shouldered as it is...so anything I put in the shoulder will simply be for smooth lines and to fill the clavicle area vs. trying to create a broad shouldered look. Does anybody have any thoughts or knowledge of tailoring that could confirm or deny shoulder construction in most modern doublets?

On a separate note, I made a pressing ham last night...turned out great, cost me nothing, let me get rid of a bunch of wool and cotton scraps I had been saving for no reason, and only took about 45 mins or so to make. I love fast simple projects!

[Mac Ghille Sheathanaich]

Always make sure to pre-shrink interfacings, lining fabric and outer fabric.

I've learned the hard way. If fabrics aren't pre-shrunk, they can pucker and pull when interfacing is ironed on.

I've taken lately to not using fusible interfacing.

Rather, I will use hair canvas and fusible web. Which is a very light weight, heat-set film.

I find that I get a better bond with using the fusible web than fusible interfacing. Fabric stores will be able to point you to the right product.

It means more work, in that you have to cut out a piece of the stuff for each garment part that is to be interfaced, but all told, it's a helluva lot faster than tailor basting all interfacings in place.

Same procedure for fusible interfacing, in that it is heat set, with the fusible web sandwiched in between the hair canvas and the wrong side of the garment piece.

It everything has been pre-shrunk, and ironed flat, there should be no problems.

Regards aye,

T.