Mixing tartans - yes or no?

[Morris at Heathfield]

In honest ignorance: What's the issue with Campbell of Argyle? I'm not familiar with that concern. Somebody please un-ignorant me.

http://ccsna.org/jsep50a.htm#A0

The opinion of the 12th Duke of Argyll, from the Clan Campbell Society of North America website, reaffirmed by the present Duke of Argyll. A longer explanation can be found in Alastair Campbell of Airds' Campbell Tartan, and in an appendix to vol. 1 of his A History of Clan Campbell.

Basically, the Campbells have customarily worn the Government tartan, likely because those Campbells who actually had kilts had them due to their military service. If I remember my facts correctly, the only Campbell tartan that was submitted to the Highland Society of London was the Campbell of Breadalbane tartan (that worn by the Breadalbane Fencibles, not the current Campbell of Breadalbane tartan).

During the 19th century two "Campbell of Argyll" tartans emerged. One had white stripes on the green check, and the other had alternating yellow and white stripes on the green check. Each was worn by successive Dukes of Argyll (the 6th and 7th Dukes). No reason was apparently given for the new tartans. Whether it was due to vanity, fraud (e.g. by the Sobieski Stuart brothers), or a desire to differentiate the clan tartan from that used by the 42nd Regiment, is unknown. However, the common folk around Inveraray believed the new tartans to be special tartans only to be worn by the chief. The tartan now known as "Campbell of Argyll" was published in numerous tartan books, beginning with the Vestiarium Scoticum in 1842, while the Campbell of Argyll tartan with the white stripe was published in Smiths' The Authenticated Tartans of the Clans & Families of Scotland in 1850, apparently with the approval of the 7th Duke of Argyll.

Later Dukes of Argyll apparently reverted to wearing the Government tartan, but by then the "Campbell of Argyll" tartan (with yellow and white stripes) was widely known, being woven by the tartan mills, and being sold as "Campbell" or "Campbell of Argyll". It would not occur to most Campbells unfamiliar with their clan's custom to look for their tartan under "Black Watch" or "42nd".

One Duke of Argyll went so far as to employ an artist to paint black the light stripes on a portrait of either the 6th or the 7th Duke of Argyll. When the artist found out what his job was, he refused. A version of the story is found in Sir Thomas Innes of Learney's revision of The Clans, Septs & Regiments of the Scottish Highlands. Innes of Learney, taking as fact that the Campbell of Argyll tartan was the original Campbell tartan, interprets the event as an attempt by the Campbell chiefs to appropriate the universal, national Government tartan.

With the arrival of tartans in the ancient colors during the early or mid-20th century, the Campbells gradually began adopting the ancient colors. Even though tartans in different shades are supposedly the same tartan, it is generally understood that the Government tartan in the modern colors is the "Black Watch", while in the ancient colors it is the Campbell clan tartan.

[Father Bill]

http://ccsna.org/jsep50a.htm#A0

The opinion of the 12th Duke of Argyll, from the Clan Campbell Society of North America website, reaffirmed by the present Duke of Argyll. A longer explanation can be found in Alastair Campbell of Airds' Campbell Tartan, and in an appendix to vol. 1 of his A History of Clan Campbell.

Basically, the Campbells have customarily worn the Government tartan, likely because those Campbells who actually had kilts had them due to their military service. If I remember my facts correctly, the only Campbell tartan that was submitted to the Highland Society of London was the Campbell of Breadalbane tartan (that worn by the Breadalbane Fencibles, not the current Campbell of Breadalbane tartan).

During the 19th century two "Campbell of Argyll" tartans emerged. One had white stripes on the green check, and the other had alternating yellow and white stripes on the green check. Each was worn by successive Dukes of Argyll (the 6th and 7th Dukes). No reason was apparently given for the new tartans. Whether it was due to vanity, fraud (e.g. by the Sobieski Stuart brothers), or a desire to differentiate the clan tartan from that used by the 42nd Regiment, is unknown. However, the common folk around Inveraray believed the new tartans to be special tartans only to be worn by the chief. The tartan now known as "Campbell of Argyll" was published in numerous tartan books, beginning with the Vestiarium Scoticum in 1842, while the Campbell of Argyll tartan with the white stripe was published in Smiths' The Authenticated Tartans of the Clans & Families of Scotland in 1850, apparently with the approval of the 7th Duke of Argyll.

Later Dukes of Argyll apparently reverted to wearing the Government tartan, but by then the "Campbell of Argyll" tartan (with yellow and white stripes) was widely known, being woven by the tartan mills, and being sold as "Campbell" or "Campbell of Argyll". It would not occur to most Campbells unfamiliar with their clan's custom to look for their tartan under "Black Watch" or "42nd".

One Duke of Argyll went so far as to employ an artist to paint black the light stripes on a portrait of either the 6th or the 7th Duke of Argyll. When the artist found out what his job was, he refused. A version of the story is found in Sir Thomas Innes of Learney's revision of The Clans, Septs & Regiments of the Scottish Highlands. Innes of Learney, taking as fact that the Campbell of Argyll tartan was the original Campbell tartan, interprets the event as an attempt by the Campbell chiefs to appropriate the universal, national Government tartan.

With the arrival of tartans in the ancient colors during the early or mid-20th century, the Campbells gradually began adopting the ancient colors. Even though tartans in different shades are supposedly the same tartan, it is generally understood that the Government tartan in the modern colors is the "Black Watch", while in the ancient colors it is the Campbell clan tartan.

Another generous answer. Thanks fellows; I am deeply appreciative of your expertise and kindness in sharing.

Bill