XMarks vest on the bias

[piperdbh]

It looks good so far, Sydnie. I bought this pattern today. Do the welts cover real pockets, or are they there just to look like pockets?

[sydnie7]

It looks good so far, Sydnie. I bought this pattern today. Do the welts cover real pockets, or are they there just to look like pockets?

Just faux welts in this pattern. I'm going to make real pockets. . . attach the welt along its bottom (raw) edge, then essentially sew a large bound buttonhole using a big rectangle of interfaced lining. After the lining is turned inside and the edge of the opening topstitched, the upper half of the lining piece will be folded down, sewn around the edges of the lower half, and voila! The welt is pressed upward to hide the "buttonhole" and handstitched at each end.

At least, that's the way it works in my vision, "we'll see."

[sydnie7]

OK, last working post for the night. Collars sewn and pressed. Pretty good mirror image. . . not the smoothest of curves, I'll do some more pressing in the morning, but when these are laid atop matching tartan I don't think it would be too obvious.



I am thinking that when the lining is sewn and the front/collar assembly pressed, the collar may creep slightly out of alignment. Its raw edge has to fold around a larger radius than the front. . . I will do some basting and folding to test this theory before machine sewing. But first I have to cobble up those pockets, which is not to be tackled at the end of a longish day!

BTW the pattern called for self-fabric on top and underside of collar. I chose to use lining underneath instead, to cut down the bulk. I'm happy with that choice (you can see the plain blue fabric peeking out along the raw edge of what will be the right-hand collar).

[piperdbh]

Just faux welts in this pattern. I'm going to make real pockets. . . attach the welt along its bottom (raw) edge, then essentially sew a large bound buttonhole using a big rectangle of interfaced lining. After the lining is turned inside and the edge of the opening topstitched, the upper half of the lining piece will be folded down, sewn around the edges of the lower half, and voila! The welt is pressed upward to hide the "buttonhole" and handstitched at each end.

At least, that's the way it works in my vision, "we'll see."

Yep; that's how pockets work, alright.

[bigdad1]

My congratulations to anyone that can understand what she is saying. I leave that stuff to her wonderous skills, and beautiful looks, and just smile and say "yes that is my wife Sydnie.'

[sydnie7]

More progress. As promised, I pressed the collars again -- but this time, I cut a cardboard template of the "good" curve and inserted it into the other side. Now they look "more better."



On to pockets. I folded, sewed, trimmed, flipped and pressed the welts -- here they are with three finished edges, in their final alignment on the vest fronts. Note how nicely the grey stripes line up in this picture. . . there's a quiz later



I chalked around them to show where pockets will hide.



Pocket openings will be 4.5 in wide.



Based on that and the distance from welt to eventual lower hem. . .



I figured my pocket patches needed to be 5.5 x 8 inches. Here they are, reinforced with the less expensive white fusible.

[Alan H]

'allo?

NICE job!

[sydnie7]

Pocket patch on the vest front. Now, how to mark where I want to sew it?



Fold and crease at upper line. . .



Fold and crease at lower line. . .



And you have established the top and bottom edges of pocket opening.



Mark those lines for future reference.

[sydnie7]

[Sorry I haven't gotten all the photos rotated to same view -- hope you're not getting whiplash!]

Now to chalk corresponding lines on the vest front.




And pin the pocket patch to the vest front, matching those two marked rectangles. Lots of peeking between the layers to make sure the pin is going in the right place.



Then sew around the rectangle.

[Aspiringloser]

This is awesome. Give me more!