Beeswax for Strap Backs and Other Leather Accessories?

[Bugbear]

I've been buying honeycomb pieces down at my local farmer's market, and collecting beeswax; sometimes use it when sewing and other things.
I see it suggested here on the forum, from time to time, to put wax on the back of sporran/kilt straps and belts.

1. Is beeswax the right wax for that?
2. Is there a preferred method of application?
3. Any other suggestions for the use of beeswax?

And by the way, the honey from the combs is very good.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

I'd be cautious about putting beeswax on anything that would come into direct contact with clothing, for obvious reasons.

[Bugbear]

Just saw it suggested, at least wax, several times. I don't know much about it.

[AKScott]

I use beeswax on linen thread when sewing leather. It helps keep the strands of thread together so I am dealing with one thread instead of multiple strands.

It is possible according to the books to twist a purcupine quill or stiff piece of hair onto the end of the same kind of thread, using the pointy bit as a guide. I use steel needles myself, never tried sewing with a porcupine quill.

I would be reticent to coat the kilt side of a sporran strap with beeswax, though there are some waxed finishes for leather made primarily from beeswax. I am sure some folks who have actually done it will be along in due time, I mostly use Lexol myself.

[Bugbear]

I use beeswax on linen thread when sewing leather. It helps keep the strands of thread together so I am dealing with one thread instead of multiple strands.

It is possible according to the books to twist a purcupine quill or stiff piece of hair onto the end of the same kind of thread, using the pointy bit as a guide. I use steel needles myself, never tried sewing with a porcupine quill.

I would be reticent to coat the kilt side of a sporran strap with beeswax, though there are some waxed finishes for leather made primarily from beeswax. I am sure some folks who have actually done it will be along in due time, I mostly use Lexol myself.

Oh, now there's something I should look into, growing flax.

I know I've seen someone on the forum talking about putting wax on the back of straps...

Anyway, yes, I've used the waxed linen thread on a few limited leather things I've worked on, as well as wax on thread for sewing fabric.
I know very, very little about any of that, but it's interesting.


I also very clearly remember DWFII discussing the use of a split hair from the back of a European boar in linen leather stitching. Also a split piece of monofilament fishing line.

Any other beeswax uses?

[Downunder Kilt]

Once upon a time most furniture polishes main element was beeswax, so if you have a lot of old time furniture, get ready for a lot of elbow grease

[Dale-of-Cedars]

... I mostly use Lexol myself.

Which Lexol product, the leather conditioner or the Neatsfoot?

[Nighthawk]

Well, Ted, let's see... I use a thick coat of bee's wax to waterproof the insides of leather mugs, and like Artificer, I use it to burnish edges, although it sounds like he and I have a slightly different method. I use the wax as a sealer after I've dyed the edges. I also use it as a moisture barrier on the grain side of my more historical pieces, as opposed to super sheen. For that, I melt the wax in a candle maker that I got for Christmas a few years ago. I have a piece of oak dowel that I wrapped in material from an old white t shirt, which attaches to my power drill. I then use the drill on a low speed to buff the wax into the surface. I would imagine that method would work for the flesh side as well (this is actually something suggested to me by Artificer- thanks much for that!)- melt the wax into the leather. I would advise some sort sealer over it, however- some kind of polish maybe. The best option that I have found for the backs of straps is Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene, found here:

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/s..._1&kw=resolene

I've gotten really good results using it. Don't know how it would work over bee's wax, though.

On a slightly different note, I'm really jealous of your honey combs/fresh wax! Enjoy!! If you ever feel like selling a little, I make candles for my tent on a regular basis throughout the summer.

[AKScott]

Which Lexol product, the leather conditioner or the Neatsfoot?

I have not owned any Neatsfoot oil since we had horses on the farm when I as a much younger man. I remember it was great stuff on tack, but it always had a little bit of slime on the surface the way we were applying it. Same in the draught horse barn at the Kentucky Horse Park many decades ago. I think the grooms in the carriage horse barn next door were using Neatsfoot on their tack as well, but they were constantly buffing and rubbing and buffing and rubbing.

If you can get a nice finish with Neatsfoot I would expect to remain stable until the next time a horse sweats horse sweat through the leather. I know some folks see a horse all lathered up are thinking what an exciting ride, I generally try to guess how many pints of Neatsfoot the tack is going to need tonight before I go home.

A working team of two draught horses can easily require a pint of Neatsfoot oil to keep both harnesses (about 80 pounds of leather) in tip top shape after a single working day with just a bit of sweat foam at the edge of the collar.

I can get a much nicer non greasy finish on leather not exposed to sweat with plain old Lexol conditioner.

On new construction vegetable tanned leather I generally saturate the finished piece twice daily until the last droplets on the surface don't soak into the leather overnight. At that point I'll buff it smooth (plain white Tshirt only), let it sit a couple days and then soak it some more.

For nicer leathers, car seats, cowboy boots, Lexol conditioner is about the heaviest conditioner I will use. Feibings has a couple lighter viscosity proucts I have enjoyed; my favorite lighter weight product was a can of leather cream I bought at a Jaguar dealership - that stuff was great.

Vegetable leather, one scrap straight from the store unfinished and the top edge of one of my briefcases. The latter I had made of vegetable leather and has been finished with only time, plain white Tshirt buffing and Lexol conditioner.

[Dale-of-Cedars]

The best option that I have found for the backs of straps is Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene, found here:

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/s..._1&kw=resolene

I can get a much nicer non greasy finish on leather not exposed to sweat with plain old Lexol conditioner.

Great. Thanks very much.