Hand Sewn v Machine sewn

[Mikilt]

I am not known for my prowess at searching out information. I tried the search function and I didn't find what I am looking for.

Is there an advantage to having a kilt hand sewn as opposed to machine sewn? Is there a difference in quality of construction, look, feel or fit? All of my kilts to date are machine sewn and I am very satisfied with all of these aspects.

I think I recall a thread where I read that stitches are not visible on a hand sewn kilt. Perhaps I am mis-remembering.

[Terry1948]

The stitches are visible on my machine sewn if you look closely, but that is not a problem from my perspective. The fit is great!

I have seen handsewn kilts where the stitches are not visible, but I have also seen handsewn kilts where the stitches are very visible.

I don't know whether there is an advantage one way over the other. I think it more depends upon the look you are seeking and the purpose to which you hope to put the kilt. Machine sewn does typically stitch multiple layers together (which really adds to the strength), whereas handsewn can probably be more picky about which layers are stitched.

I think the important thing is whether there is quality to the construction.

I am not a kiltmaker, so this is just my understanding. I did spend some hours with the folks at Freedom Kilts and they were great to walk me through the differences.

[The Wizard of BC]

From someone who makes both hand-stitched and machine-stitched kilts let me jump in here.

First, the quality of construction is all up to the kilt maker. Some makers do very high quality work and some less so. It is not so much how the fabric is stitched but the abilities and pride of the maker that makes a quality kilt.

The abilities and pride of the maker are also what will determine how a kilt fits, looks, swishes and wears much more that how the fabric is stitched together.

But there are differences in hand versus machine sewn stitches.

The largest difference is that hand stitches should be completely invisible on the outside of the kilt. I say should because quite frankly very few hand stitches in kilts today are actually invisible. I have seen examples of top names in this business where each and every stitch shows. Even some where the hand stitches are more visible than a line of machine stitching.

Hand stitches when made totally invisible are among the hallmarks of a top-of-the-line kilt.

But hand stitches are, for the most part, weaker than machine sewn stitches. The single thread, if it breaks, may 'run' and you may have a pleat come unstitched for an inch or more before you even notice it.

Hand stitches must also be made with exactly even tension on each stitch. If the tension is not equal it creates a stress point which may fail. This is where machine stitches come into their own. Each machine stitch is the same tension. Stitch length is the same throughout and with two threads "locked" together they do not "run" as easily as hand formed stitches.

But lines of machine sewn stitches are almost always visible. Some do not mind the lines being visible. Some would never buy a machine sewn kilt.

Machine sewn kilts are usually less expensive.
On reason can be due to the time savings when using a machine but this is not always the main reason.
Many machine sewn kilts are viewed by their makers as simply products to sell. The person doing the sewing is often viewed more as a machine operator than a kiltmaker. It is not uncommon for some mass makers to required each sewer to produce 10-20-or more, completed products each day. When held to standards like that it really does not matter if the product is a kilt or a shirt.

Another reason some machine sewn kilts are less expensive is they are, what I call, "Jeans-Made". What this means is that like blue jeans, the total strength of the kilt is in the fabric and the lines of stitches.
A Traditionally made and a Contemporarily made kilt are what I call "Kilt-Made". The stress of strapping it on and moving are taken up by the interfacing and stabilizers built inside the kilt and hidden by the lining. When you strap on a traditional or contemporary kilt you are actually wearing the internal construction elements. The outer Tartan fabric is allowed to drape and float over the internal elements. You never put stress on the stitching or the fabric.

In kilts with the internal stabilizers or waistbanding, and interfacings or stiffeners, the only difference in how it is stitched is cosmetic.

And finally, almost all kilts made from Cotton and Cotton bland fabrics will be machine sewn. This is due to the fact that Cotton does not hold a crease. So edge stitching is usually done to keep the crease lines.

So, yes most inexpensive klts are machine sewn, so machine stitching is often viewed as the mark of less quality.
But in truth is is less about the way the fabric is sewn together than it is the abilities, skill, and pride of the maker that is fare more important.

[fw_kilt]

I knew it would be a short time before either Rocky or Steve would reply. Thanks of a good explanation Steve!

[bonnie heather]

Machine sewing kilts is impossibly difficult for me, so I don't do that.

My specialty is hand sewing kilts and I love doing that. Heavy weight tartan is quite forgiving because the stitches are somewhat hidden within the thickness of the fabric. But when sewing lighter weight tartan, it's more of a challenge to keep the stitches neat and invisible and the tartan pattern well lined up. I love that challenge.

[bonnie heather]

Okay... now the photo is right side up....
Apparently I'm better at traditional old world skills than modern technology....

[Mikilt]

Steve,
Thank you for those important points. You have answered my question very thoroughly.


Bonnie,
Wow! That is really amazing work.