Double-breasted jackets?

[KD Burke]

Well, I'll take a stab at this, but as has been pointed out, I'm not very convincing and fail to discuss things in a way that isn't polarizing..

Given the evidence of your last post, I would have to disagree, sir! You provided a very well-reasoned argument which explained your views in a clear and lucid fashion. At last I feel that I understand, to some degree, your "strident" view of this particular jacket.

I consider Highland attire to be the most noble style of gentlemanly dress. Moves to take away some of the grandeur, some of the style, and some of the elegance of it just seems so sad to me.

In point of fact, I suspect that our tastes my run somewhat parallel.

Please accept that my comments were not intended as any sort of slight, but were intended to elicit a fuller, more considered explanation of your opinions. I am pleased that you have chosen to expand on your previous posts.

Thank you!

KD
:ootd:

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Gentlemen All--

There is probably no more useful dress kilt jacket than the dress Argyll (spelled with two "L"s and no "E" so as not to confuse it with a pair of socks). To begin with it eliminates the dreaded gap between jacket and kilt so often associated with the Prince Charlie coatee. While generally seen in black, with self faced lapels, it can be ordered in any fabric-- velvets and corduroys look smashing-- and can be had in a pallet of colours that range from psomber to psychadelic. Lapels and cuffs can, and in my opinion should be, of gross grain silk. Buttons can be anything from fabric covered to, if one must, the ubiquitious squares that look like chrome plated Rice Checks. Waistcoats can match or contrast. Stylistically the choices reach as far as the horizon and far, far, beyond.

Best of all, the dress Argyll has-- wait for it-- POCKETS!!!! Big, useful pockets. A place for your latch key, your card case, a small pistol, a spare hankie, a cigar cutter, and anything else that won't comfortably fit in your sporran.

"So," you may ask, "How does one obtain such a marvelous piece of kit?" Easy. Tell the outfitter from whom you are getting your Argyll jacket three things:

1) Colour-- tell them exactly what colour you want.
2) Lapels-- tell them the colour and fabric (silk gross grain is best) that you want.
3) Collar-- insist that the collar (the bit that goes around the back of your neck) be of black velvet.

Now this will cost a bit more, but not that much more. If your outfitter can't, or won't, do as asked-- head out the door. You have obviously wandered into a bakery (hence the cookie cutter mentality), not a proper Highland outfitters.

[CMcG]

The Argyll is indeed a versatile jacket, especially if one follows MoR's advice and gets something custom. I've never seen one with silk lapels but that would certainly help it bridge the gap between levels of formality.

Too bad for the topic of this thread though that they aren't double-breasted... or is there such a beast?

[JSFMACLJR]

Too bad for the topic of this thread though that they aren't double-breasted... or is there such a beast?

I won't say there isn't, but I must agree with MacKinnon of Dunakin*, who wrote: "One sometimes hears of people wearing double-breasted jackets with a kilt, but never having seen it, I can only hope this is the figment of some over-wrought imagination."


*C. R. MacKinnon of Dunakin, author of Tartans and Highland Dress.

[svc40bt]

A double breasted Argyll would interfere with one's sporran.

I am curious to hear anyone's opinion of this double breasted jacket (on the right) from earlier in this thread. I generally like it, though perhaps with a lower gorge and fewer buttons. I also prefer gauntlet cuffs. Thoughts?

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Mine may be a minority opinion, but I tend to regard pipers as wearing either uniforms or costumes as a necessary part of their performance. I don't regard their attire as necessarily representative of what may constitute expected civilian Highland attire.

I think if you saw the double breasted jacket worn without the pipes you would possibly form the opinion that it is not really something appropriate to the kilt.

[svc40bt]

Mine may be a minority opinion, but I tend to regard pipers as wearing either uniforms or costumes as a necessary part of their performance. I don't regard their attire as necessarily representative of what may constitute expected civilian Highland attire.

I think if you saw the double breasted jacket worn without the pipes you would possibly form the opinion that it is not really something appropriate to the kilt.

Perhaps, but I think this pic, as previously posted in several threads, shows a double breasted civilian look to good effect. Perhaps it is just the fellow's attitude that makes it work.



I was thinking one could have something made up to the purpose, rather than adapting a Montrose in this fashion.

[Lyle1]

I'm planning on getting one of these one day to wear as a Regency styled Kilt jacket.

I think that might look very nice, depending on what you do with the tails. True, it would not be traditional, and you would not look like a highland gentleman, but I doubt that you are going to run into many highland gentlemen while you are wearing it, so that should not be an overwhelming concern. The important issues are how it looks and how you feel about it!

[JSFMACLJR]

!

I keep thinking the dummy is wearing knee breeches!

Which reminds me that I am in need of a new pair to go with my beagling tail coat. Not a top priority, mind you, but the Master wears my father's old pair, which I used to wear, so now I am without breeches. How will I survive this calamity?

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Perhaps, but I think this pic, as previously posted in several threads, shows a double breasted civilian look to good effect. Perhaps it is just the fellow's attitude that makes it work.



I was thinking one could have something made up to the purpose, rather than adapting a Montrose in this fashion.

Well, it appears to me that the fellow is wearing a Montrose made up in black wool, which is probably somewhat cooler than if it was made up in velvet. Obviously the wearer had the right idea, but (in my opinion) lacked the courage of his convictions.

Imagine how much more striking this Montrose would look if the turnbacks were a deep burgundy, and the collar velvet instead of the same fabric as the jacket. Add to that a shirt with a wing collar and a really full jabot and, in my opinion, the gentleman would have captured much more of the gallant spirit of formal Highland attire.