Bias waistcoat question

[artificer]

Matt's center stripe is green... The bias has both the green and purple...

My center stripe has the same colours as the the waistcoat...

It may be a function of the sett size/colours though...

It IS a function of the sett/fabric cutter's decision. The green "square" would appear right below Matt's jabot if the waistcoat were cut high enough.

Your set has one full repeat showing, with the second incomplete (but it would form right below the chin). Matt's sett is much larger.

ith:

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Matt's center stripe is green... The bias has both the green and purple...

My center stripe has the same colours as the the waistcoat...

It may be a function of the sett size/colours though...

I think it is simply a function of the fact that the tartan in the waistcoat is on the bias, and therefore there is no "center line" to match up with the center line of my kilt. However, if you look, the white line flanked by the red stripes (which is not the center line of the kilt, but the opposite pivot line to what I centered the apron to), does rather line up with those lines on the waistcoat. It's a bit askew just from the way I am standing in the photo.

However, that was purely accidental!

[creagdhubh]

It's a bit askew just from the way I am standing in the photo.

However, that was purely accidental!

Yep!

[creagdhubh]

I don't quite follow you here. It looks to me that Matt's waistcoat and centre line of the kilt are only slightly askew, due to normal "wear and tear", or am I missing something?

Quite right.

[sydnie7]

I don't quite follow you here. It looks to me that Matt's waistcoat and centre line of the kilt are only slightly askew, due to normal "wear and tear", or am I missing something?

My comment is based on what I'll call the "major purple element" in Matt's tartan. On his kilt, those two major purple vertical lines run up on either side of the central white stripe. On his vest, the major purple element is centered and appears on the most visible portion of the vest. Maybe it was the only option, based on the fabric available, but with unlimited fabric one could engineer the kilt's central white stripe to appear between the second and third buttons on the vest.

Now to play with XMTS tartan and see what looks best/lines up nicely with the existing kilt layout!

P.S. I think Matt's vest looks fabulous, by the way, no intent to denigrate it or the maker!

[sydnie7]

As an aside, I know about "working with the fabric you have." My first bias cut tartan vest was made for my mother from a bare yard of dw Duncan fabric purchased from, IIRC, Rocky's scrap basket. Fortunately it is a stand-alone piece, no kilt layout to worry about, so all I had to do was fit the pattern pieces onto the available yardage. I still ended up piecing one hidden lower side corner. . . most of the pieced portion ended up as seam allowance, but it was "fun" matching up that missing corner!

Mother chose to forego buttons on this vest, so I've pinned it closed to show the front center line-up. Matching the pocket welts was my greatest challenge, and I cringe looking at that right-hand-side job. I have a plan for doing better on the XMTS vest!



Remember that this is a ladies' vest, so the darts take up more fabric than they would on a man's vest. Hence the major misalignment of tartan lines (and pocket welts) on the outboard side of each dart.

[sydnie7]

I cut an outline of the approximate vest size to lay atop the fabric and help me visualize possible front-center alignments, and I think there are only two choices.

My initial favorite


But the more I look at this one. . .


The kilt has the thin yellow stripe at front center, and I think option 1 will result in the two white stripes on the front apron basically lining up with the two that "descend" from the hem of the vest. So it will likely remain my choice. But they both look so good!

[Calico]

Sydnie, on the computer screen the yellow line is too subtle. People might not be able to realize that it was intentionally centered. The white overpowers it.

I think your 1st layout would look the most centered and pleasing. I'm looking forward to seeing Bob in this.

(cute bow tie and studs, by the way)

[Panache]

Sydnie,

I'm thinking if you get the hang of this you have a whole new line to your business and people from all over will be sending you tartan material!

Cheers

Jamie