Worn out my kilt?!?!?!?

[NorCalPiper]

I'm in shock! Almost 3 years ago, Matt helped me design and get woven my "Browns of the South East" tartan. He made me a PERFECT box pleat from it in exchange for some argyll & diced hose. It has been my absolute favorite kilt since then and is worn AT LEAST once a week if not more. Today I took it down and decided to press it since it hasn't been so in about 6 months. SHOCK!!! I realized as I laid it out that my sporran strap and sporran(s) had frayed and roughed the fabric where they lay respectively. I don't use a chain strap, not do I usually where a sporran with a metal cantle. I can't believe this!!! I looked at my other fave (My heather isles tartan kilt) and noticed that there is the same thing happening, but not to as great an extent. ALSO-some roughness on the back pleats from my computer desk chair-I sit at a side angle in this chair (Strange habbit from working at Apple too long)and the wear is at the weird angle my body is positioned.

So there it is-I've done everything right as far as care, but close to daily wear certainly takes its toll!!!

UPDATE: Pressing seems to smooth things out a small bit, but the wear is still there.

[bchunter]

I'm sure the wool will show some wear but it should still function well for a long time, if not in full dress presentation state. Still, it kind of hurts a bit to have a favorite item show decline, doesn't it?

[artificer]

How is the back of your sporran strap finished?

The first one I ever made I left 'raw' smooth veg-tan. I noticed that after a few days of wearing it, my kilt was starting to show a little 'raised fibre'. Ever since then I have always burnished the backs with beeswax for a very smooth, polished finish. That was the end of the problem. I think raw leather is too 'grippy' for constant wear against wool or pv.

The other issue may be the edge of your strap, if not burnished and rounded, the square-cut edge may be dragging across your fabric too much and causing the issue.

The chair... cannot help you there.

[davidlpope]

So there it is-I've done everything right as far as care, but close to daily wear certainly takes its toll!!!

UPDATE: Pressing seems to smooth things out a small bit, but the wear is still there.

Isn't that the point, though? You're wearing this kilt enough so that it shows wear like any other item of clothing. In my mind this is a GOOD thing as it distinguishes your kilt from a "costumey get-up". Like a old leather sporran with a fine patina, or a mask sporran where some of the fur has rubbed off (or a pair of frayed, well worn blue jeans for that matter), I would encourage you to view the wear on your kilt as a mark of authenticity.

Cordially,

David

[cavscout]

How is the back of your sporran strap finished?

The first one I ever made I left 'raw' smooth veg-tan. I noticed that after a few days of wearing it, my kilt was starting to show a little 'raised fibre'. Ever since then I have always burnished the backs with beeswax for a very smooth, polished finish. That was the end of the problem. I think raw leather is too 'grippy' for constant wear against wool or pv.

The other issue may be the edge of your strap, if not burnished and rounded, the square-cut edge may be dragging across your fabric too much and causing the issue.

The chair... cannot help you there.

Yep, while the inside of the belt and sporran strap are not seen a nice belt will address it. I Edge bevel, slick and coat everything and the inside is finished as well.

[artificer]

Yep, while the inside of the belt and sporran strap are not seen a nice belt will address it. I Edge bevel, slick and coat everything and the inside is finished as well.

I'm always amazed when I see an otherwise nice belt that DOESN'T have the edges and back treated.

Unfinished edges (both on belts/straps and on sporrans/sheaths) are one thing I notice with some frequency in Highland wear that bothers me.

[MacBean]

OK. Let's assume that my belts are unfinished. What should I do to finish them? I have lots of beeswax if that is useful!

[cavscout]

Assuming your belt edges are essentially squared off, you wold first want to bevel the edge. Tandy sells edge bevelers of various sizes. This begins the rounding process by slicing off the sharp corner edge. We're not talking a drastic rounding. This is a very subtle radius, just enough to blunt the edge. The beveler will only take off a thin sliver of leather.

If the belt edges are not dyed to match the belt, you may want to dye the edges.

Then Burnish the edges which is a fancy way of saying rub them smooth. There are many ways to do this but essentially you want it to be a smooth rounded edge when your done. Essentially all your doing is getting the short edge fibers to lay down smooth. Using bees wax or other edge treatments will help and somewhat seal the edge but some will just use hot water and elbow grease. A piece of burlap or denim is often used to do the rubbing. You'll spend a lot of time and effort on this phase and this step is why the price of a none-edge treated belt and an edge treated belt are so different.

Once the edge is round and smooth, you can coat the edge with one of several edge seals or coats.

There are power tools that will do a lot of this faster but I decided I could either spend time maintaining belt making machines or making quality belts using hand tools and opted for the later

[seanachie]

Assuming your belt edges are essentially squared off, you wold first want to bevel the edge. Tandy sells edge bevelers of various sizes. This begins the rounding process by slicing off the sharp corner edge.

If the belt edges are not dyed to match the belt, you may want to dye the edges.

Then Burnish the edges which is a fancy way of saying rub them smooth. There are many ways to do this but essentially you want it to be a smooth rounded edge when your done. Essentially all your doing is getting the short edge fibers to lay down smooth. Using bees wax or other edge treatments will help and somewhat seal the edge but some will just use hot water and elbow grease. A piece of burlap or denim is often used to do the rubbing. You'll spend a lot of time and effort on this phase and this step is why the price of a none-edge treated belt and an edge treated belt are so different.

Once the edge is round and smooth, you can coat the edge with one of several edge seals or coats.

There are power tools that will do a lot of this faster but I decided I could either spend time maintaining belt making machines or making quality belts using hand tools and opted for the later

And the quality of Steve's product is fantastic. I have one of his sporran belts and it not only displays the craftsmanship he details here, but is thick and strong and the clips are strong. Definitely a worthwhille investment and a good looking accessory.

[iustus]

I am sympathetic to your feeling on the wear and tear, and at the same time, I agree with David... this is both a success and to a bit of a bummer.

(I have perhaps mentioned this story once before, sorry if I am repeating myself.)

I used to live in a community of contemplatives, we were the 2nd floor of the building while the SSF (Franciscans) were the 1st floor. One of the old friars used ask me to practice my piping outside his window, (I played on the sidewalk next to the building into the traffic at 5pm.) One day a package came for him, and he asked me to bring it in. Big box of stuff. He had two kilts and a mess of highland this and thats in there. One was a MacLeod of the Isles his family tartan the other was a Clergy tartan in Modern, which looked relatively new (he was a priest though went by Br.) The MacLeod was a bit frayed at the bottom, he said he used to be a Boy Scout. I mention how the Clergy Tartan was in such nice shape and he mention, "This one is the second. The one I was ordained in; under my cassock, under my alb, under my vestments ofcourse... it wore out." I asked him how it had worn out, he said, "By wearing it ofcourse." He then warned me of the struggles of wearing a kilt under the cassock... "it kills the selvedge, but is good for the soul."
He's never in them anymore due to wearing the habit and infirmity... I'd bet he'd be wrapped up in one of them under his habit if he could.

Thanks for the heads up on belts and finishes everybody.

peace,
justin